As you move along the south coast to the west the local fare becomes spicier. If you like your goat satay dipped in five-alarm chili you will love eating along the southern coast. In Negara, the tidy little Café Nathalia, Jl. Ngurah Rai 107 (tel. 0365/41161; main courses Rp45,000-Rp90,000; MC, V; daily 11am-10pm), in the Wira Prada Hotel, is best known for its spicy Chinese food but also has some of the best nasi goreng and fried Indonesian noodle dishes on the southern coast. Follow your meal with a cup of high-octane local coffee. Rumah Makan Puas, Jl. Ngurah Rai 60 (tel. 0365/41618; main courses Rp40,000-Rp80,000; no credit cards; daily 11am-10pm), just 100m (328 ft.) from the Wira Prada hotel, is best known for its twice-cooked spicy chicken -- surprisingly tender given that it is grilled and then fried.

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