Planning a trip to Negril
Regrettably and to the surprise of many visitors, the Jamaica Tourist Board has no office in Negril. Seekers of information are referred to the office in Montego Bay, (tel. 876/952-4425), which is hardly a practical solution for most visitors.
Which One's for You: Negril or Mo Bay?
Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, when Montego Bay was a magnet for some of the richest and best-known celebrities in the world, Negril was little more than a fishing village. Throughout the 1960s and '70s, it became well known as a destination for hippies who appreciated the cheap and readily available ganja and the laid-back lifestyle. But beginning in the early 1980s, Negril has redefined itself as a serious tourist competitor to Montego Bay. Despite the fact that Negril is catching up in the tourism game, the two resorts remain markedly different in their flavor and in what they have to offer. And despite an increase in first-class hotels, Negril is not in the same league as Montego Bay when it comes to famous, posh, or legendary hotels.
For the serious golfer, Mo Bay is also the better choice, with several of the finest courses in the Caribbean. And for those who view sightseeing as part of their holiday, Montego Bay offers the most diversified attractions in Jamaica. In marked contrast, Negril, other than its beaches, is not blessed with great sights.
What, then, does Negril offer? There is no more laid-back place in the Caribbean for sunning by day and "sinning" after dark. For those who want to hang out -- literally -- Negril has the only officially sanctioned nude beach in all Jamaica. Negril is a sensual, fun-loving Eden where you can find shelter in everything from a Rastafarian hut to an overcrowded Jacuzzi where fellow guests may be naked. And if you hate fancy French restaurants, but enjoy hallucinogenic brownies and 11km-long (6 3/4-mile) beaches, then Negril is the place for you.
Ironically, despite a well-deserved reputation for libertine behavior among otherwise conservative adults, for some reason, Negril has become increasingly popular in recent years as a destination for families with young children.
One caution: Though the temptation to take a moonlit walk on an isolated stretch of Negril's legendary beach is powerful, resist strolling along its most isolated sections. It's possible you could be mugged at night, or worse.
Getting Around
Negril is very spread out, stretching for miles. Some visitors walk where they want to go, but it's a long hike if you're heading to the northern edge of Long Bay or to the West End -- some of these places may be 11 to 16km (6 3/4-10 miles) from your hotel. Also, walking along the roads of Negril after dark isn't recommended because of potential muggers and because of the dangers from fast-moving cars on the narrow roads of the town's West End.
So you'll need transit. The upscale resorts, including the all-inclusives, operate shuttles from the northern tip of Long Bay into Negril Village. Because the West End's hotels aren't on the beach, the more prosperous ones also operate shuttles to the beach; small inns don't.
Otherwise, you can do as the locals do and take the minibus that runs all day long up and down Norman Manley Boulevard and even into the West End. Most rides cost US$2; the bus runs until early evening, sometimes later.
In lieu of the uncomfortable minivan, you might hail a taxi. Cabbies operate all over Negril, the licensed ones displaying a red medallion. In theory, fees are regulated by the government, but in years of going to Negril, we've never encountered a meter that wasn't broken.
So negotiate your fare before getting into the cab. Most trips should cost from US$5, depending on where you're going. If a cabbie demands US$20, look for another taxi. Taxis are most plentiful at Coral Seas Plaza and the Negril Crafts Market. Your hotel will often call a cab for you; if they won't, phone the Jamaica Union of Travellers Association (JUTA; tel. 876/957-9197) for one.
You can also get around Negril by bike. Bicycles are available at most resort properties.
Instead of peddling up and down Seven Mile Beach or across the rocky cliffs of the West End, many visitors prefer to rent a motor scooter. The best supplier of those is the aptly named Dependable Bike Rental, at Vernon's Car Rental, Plaza de Negril (tel. 876/957-4354 or 876/957-3585). This outfitter doesn't rent bicycles, only motor scooters costing from US$30 to US$35 per day plus a US$300 deposit taken on your credit card. Jeeps can be rented here, as well: A Suzuki convertible jeep begins at US$70 a day.
Unlike in the U.S., helmets are not mandatory in Jamaica, but you should wear one for your own safety: Roads are potholed and often dangerous, with patches of sand and gravel making it easy to skid out of control. Helmets are included in the rental fee.
If you'd like to escape the traffic and the crowds along Norman Manley Boulevard, the best place to go biking, in our view, is into the Negril Hills, which lie beyond the Negril Lighthouse along West End Road. A bike tour here can be in relative isolation as you pass along the most often deserted beaches of greater Negril and even past some landing strips where private planes depart with illegal cargoes of marijuana for the mainland United States.
Orienting Yourself in Negril
Of all the resorts of Jamaica, Negril offers the simplest geography. Many visitors view Negril as one long street.
The South Negril River divides the resort in two, with Long Bay and its beaches lying north of the river and West End lying to the south of it.
Set inland from the beach about 91 to 137m (300-450 ft.), Norman Manley Boulevard begins near the Norman Manley Sea Park, close to the point where the South Negril River empties into Long Bay. This two-lane highway, flanked by hotels and restaurants, continues north to Long Bay Beach Park and eventually the airport.
Negril Village (the heart of Negril) consists mainly of two unimpressive shopping plazas, a bank or two, some tacky stores, and some housing developments in a distant section known as "Red Ground." (Most of Negril's local population lives here.)
The two main squares, Negril Plaza and Coral Seas Plaza, lie south of the traffic circle fronting Negril Square. At the parking lot here, you can hail a taxi to take you where you want to go. This sector marks the beginning of Sheffield Road, the main highway leading out of town to the city of Savanna-la-Mar. Here you'll find the most convenient gas station in Negril, along with a health clinic and the police station.
South of the South Negril River is a rock-studded limestone plateau. When American hippies arrived back in the 1960s, they settled here, calling the place "the Rock." Hotels here are intimate, attracting an independent backpacker clientele.
Eventually, West End Road leads to the West End and becomes Lighthouse Road as it winds its way to Negril Lighthouse, some 5km (3 miles) south of Sunshine Village at Negril Village. The lighthouse stands 30m (100 ft.) above the sea at the westernmost tip of Jamaica. The West End is the only sector that evokes the Negril of old, though it becomes increasingly congested and developed with each passing year. As you travel beyond the lighthouse, you'll find a few places to escape the maddening beach crowds.
Fast Facts
Banks -- The best, most central bank is Scotiabank, Plaza de Negril (tel. 876/957-4236), open Monday and Thursday, 8:30am to 4pm, and Friday 8:30am to 2:30pm. Its ATMs are open 24 hours.
Emergencies -- For emergencies, dial tel. 119. The Negril Police Headquarters (tel. 876/957-4268) lie some 183m (600 ft.) east of the Shell gas station on Sheffield Road. For an ambulance or to report a fire, dial tel. 110.
Internet Access -- The best place to go, outside your hotel, is the Coral Seas Beach Hotel, Norman Manley Boulevard (tel. 876/957-3147), open daily 9am to 10pm. Nonguests are permitted to use the facilities.
Mail -- Include "Jamaica, W.I." in all island addresses. The island has no zip codes.
Medical Services -- For a non-life-threatening emergency, you can go to the Negril Beach Medical Centre, Plaza Negril (tel. 876/957-4888), open daily from 9am to 5pm, or the Negril Health Centre on Sheffield Road (tel. 876/957-4926) between the police station and the Shell gas station. This center is open daily 8:30am to 5pm (until 4pm on Friday).
Pharmacy -- The best outlet is the Negril Pharmacy, shop no. 14 in the Coral Seas Plaza (tel. 876/957-4076), open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm, Sunday 10am to 4pm.
Post Office & Mail -- The Negril Post Office (tel. 876/957-9654) is located on West End Road next to the Craft Market. It is open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm. Expect long lines. Instead of the overcrowded post office, we use the Airpak Express (tel. 876/957-5051) at the Negril Aerodrome, 11km (6 3/4 miles) outside town. UPS packages arrive here, and letters can be mailed internationally.
Safety -- The all-inclusives and the first-class resorts have 24-hour security guards. The lower-rent properties rarely do, and theft -- including night burglary -- is distressingly commonplace in these places. Try to secure your room at night, and don't leave windows open no matter how tempting cooling trade winds are.
Tourists are rarely robbed at gunpoint, but muggings and pickpocketing are occasionally reported. Guard your valuables, and take all the usual precautions while traveling in Negril. Be extremely careful, especially at night, about opening your door to strangers -- even those who claim to be members of the hotel staff.
Also be careful of the drivers who race around Negril in battered cars. Some Jamaican males think they are "king of the road," and it is a fool who doesn't get out of their way. Regrettably, the same sense of machismo also afflicts some of the town's cabbies. You may need to warn your driver that you prefer to take a few minutes longer on your ride.
Travel Agents -- If you need to make travel arrangements once you've landed here, the most reliable agency is Caribic Vacations, Norman Manley Boulevard (tel. 876/957-3309).
Getting There
Arriving by Plane
If you're coming from abroad, leaving such cities as Miami or New York, try to fly into the Donald Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay.
From the airport at Montego Bay, it is an 81km (50-mile) drive southwest to Negril, a trip that usually takes 2 hours but could take more or less, depending on traffic conditions. The road winds scenically past ruins of sugar estates and great houses.
It is unwise to fly into Kingston if your destination is Negril. Kingston is 242km (150 miles) to the east and at least a 4-hour drive, maybe more.
Getting from the Airport to Negril -- If you've booked into one of the all-inclusives such as Sandals, a hotel van will carry you from the airport at Mo Bay into Negril. Arrangements for your arrival and pickup are made in advance, at the time of booking, and most of the large all-inclusive resorts clearly signpost their respective rendezvous points within the Montego Bay airport.
It's better to take a private minivan. We've found the most reliable to be TourWise (tel. 876/952-4943), charging US$25 one-way. This van will drop you right at your final destination in Negril. If you don't see a TourWise minivan waiting at the Mo Bay airport, call tel. 876/952-0019.
Another option is to go from Sangster Airport to Negril by taxi, though this is a pricey choice. The one-way fare ranges from US$65 to US$90; always negotiate it before getting into the car with your things.
Still another option is renting a car. From the airport in Montego Bay, you drive west along the A1 for about 90 minutes to reach Negril.
En route, the only town of any size you'll pass through is Lucea, built around a harbor at a point 40km (25 miles) east of Negril. If you're driving, it hardly merits a stopover, although in British colonial days it was more important than Mo Bay.
Locals call it "Lucy." If you visit at all, the best time to stop is on Saturday morning when the market around the harbor is both active and colorful, from about 7am to noon. Otherwise, we'd suggest you drive on, heading straight for the more glamorous retreats of Negril.
