Planning a trip to New Hampshire

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year's and First Night Celebrations, region-wide. Portland, Portsmouth, and Burlington, among other cities, celebrate the New Year with family activities at venues across the city. Inevitably, there are fireworks at midnight. Ask local tourist offices for details. December 31 to January 1.

February

U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden, Maine. Raucous and lively athletic event where being overweight is an advantage. Held at the Camden Snow Bowl's toboggan chute. Call tel. 207/236-3438. Early February.

Dartmouth Winter Carnival, Hanover, New Hampshire. Huge, elaborate ice sculptures grace the green during this festive celebration of winter, which includes numerous sporting events and other winter-related activities. Call tel. 603/646-1110. Mid-February.

Stowe Derby, Stowe, Vermont. The oldest downhill/cross-country ski race in the nation pits racers who scramble from the wintry summit of Mount Mansfield into the village on the Stowe Rec Path. Call tel. 802/253-7704. Late February.

March

Maine Boatbuilders Show, Portland. More than 200 exhibitors and 9,000 boat aficionados gather as winter fades to make plans for the coming summer. A great place to meet boatbuilders and get ideas for your dream craft. Call tel. 207/774-1067. Late March.

May

Annual Basketry Festival, Stowe, Vermont. A weeklong event with displays and workshops by talented artisans. Call tel. 802/253-7223 or 800/344-1546. Mid-May.

Spring Shearing, Woodstock, Vermont. A celebration of spring and an educational event. Learn all about what happens on a traditional farm, from sowing to shearing. Call the Billings Farm Museum, tel. 802/457-2355. Late May.

June

Old Port Festival, Portland, Maine. A daylong block party in the heart of Portland's historic district with live music, food vendors, and activities for kids. Call tel. 207/772-6828. Mid-June.

Market Square Day, Portsmouth, New Hampshire. This lively street fair attracts hordes from all over southern New Hampshire and Maine to dance, listen to music, sample food, and enjoy summer's arrival. Call tel. 603/433-4398. Early June.

Annual Windjammer Days, Boothbay Harbor, Maine. For nearly 4 decades, windjammers have gathered in Boothbay Harbor to kick off the summer sailing season. Expect music, food, and a parade of magnificent sailboats. Call tel. 207/633-2353. Late June.

Vermont Quilt Festival, Essex and Colchester. Displays are only part of the allure of New England's largest quilt festival. Attend classes and have your heirlooms appraised. Class and event descriptions at www.vqf.org. Late June to July.

July

Independence Day, region-wide. Communities throughout all three states celebrate with parades, greased-pole climbs, cakewalks, cookouts, road races, and fireworks. The bigger the town, the bigger the fireworks. Contact chambers of commerce for details. July 4th.

Moxie Festival, Lisbon Falls, Maine. A quirky community festival celebrating a soft drink that once outsold Coca-Cola. Call tel. 207/353-5354 or 207/939-8057. Mid-July.

Marlboro Music Festival, Marlboro, Vermont. This popular 6-week series of classical concerts has talented student musicians performing in the hills outside Brattleboro. Call tel. 802/254-2394 or 215/569-4690. Weekends from mid-July to mid-August.

August

Maine Lobster Festival, Rockland. Fill up on the local harvest at this event marking the importance and delectability of Maine's favorite crustacean. Enjoy a boiled lobster or two and take in the entertainment during this informal waterfront gala. Call tel. 800/LOB-CLAW or 207/596-0376. Usually held in first week of August.

Southern Vermont Art & Craft Fair, Manchester. Over 200 artisans show off their fine work at this popular festival that also has creative food and good music. Held at Hildene. Call tel. 802/425-3399. Early August.

Craftsman's Fair, Sunapee, New Hampshire. Quality crafts from a range of New Hampshire artisans are displayed and sold at this weeklong festival in Sunapee State Park. Call tel. 603/224-3375. Early to mid-August.

Wild Blueberry Festival, Machias, Maine. Marks the harvest of the region's wild blueberries. Eat to your heart's content. Call tel. 207/794-3543 or 255-6665. Mid-August.

Blue Hill Fair, Blue Hill, Maine. A classic country fair outside one of Maine's most elegant villages. Call tel. 207/374-3701. Late August.

September

Windjammer Weekend, Camden, Maine. Visit Maine's impressive fleet of old-time sailing ships; open houses all weekend at this scenic harbor. Call tel. 207/236-4404. Early September.

Thomas Point Bluegrass Festival, Brunswick, Maine. New England's best roots-music festival, held at Thomas Point Beach State Park. Bring your instrument and join a fireside song circle; musicians jam and improvise late into the night. Call tel. 207/725-6009. Early September.

Vermont State Fair, Rutland. All of Vermont seems to show up for this grand event, with a midway, live music, and plenty of agricultural exhibits. Call tel. 802/775-5200. Early to mid-September.

Harvest Day, Canterbury, New Hampshire. A celebration of the harvest season, Shaker-style. Lots of autumnal exhibits and children's games. Call tel. 603/783-9511. Mid-September.

Common Ground Country Fair, Unity, Maine. An old-time state fair with a twist: Emphasis is on organic foods, recycling, and wholesome living. Call tel. 207/568-4142. Late September.

October

Fryeburg Fair, Fryeburg, Maine. Cotton candy, tractor pulls, live music, huge vegetables, and barnyard animals at Maine's largest agricultural fair. Harness racing in the evening. Call tel. 207/935-3268. Early October.

November

Victorian Holiday, Portland, Maine. From late November until Christmas, Portland decorates its Old Port in a Victorian Christmas theme. Enjoy the window displays, take a free hayride, and listen to costumed carolers sing. Call tel. 207/772-6828 or 780-5555. Late November to Christmas.

December

Chester Greenwood Day, Farmington, Maine. Help this Maine town celebrate Chester Greenwood -- the inventor of the earmuff! Daylong festival includes a parade and earmuff-related fun. Call tel. 207/778-4215. Early December.

Christmas Prelude, Kennebunkport, Maine. This scenic coastal village greets Santa's arrival in a lobster boat and marks the coming of Christmas with street shows, pancake breakfasts, and tours of the town's inns. Call tel. 207/967-0857. Early December.

Candlelight Stroll, Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Historic Strawbery Banke gets in a Christmas way with old-time decorations and more than 1,000 candles lighting the 10-acre grounds. Call tel. 603/433-1100. First 2 weekends of December.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Each time you take a flight or drive a car CO2 is released into the atmosphere. Although one could argue that any vacation that includes an airplane flight or use of a car can't be truly called "green," you can still contribute positively to the environment while on vacation. Choose forward-looking companies that embrace responsible development practices and help preserve destinations for the future. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a family trip and leave as small a "footprint" as possible.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com), run by a spokesperson for responsible tourism in the travel industry, contains a great source of sustainable travel ideas.

You can find eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the International Ecotoursm Society (TIES) website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Conservation International (www.conservation.org) which, with National Geographic Traveler, annually presents World Legacy Awards to those travel tour operators, businesses, organizations, and places that have made a significant contribution to sustainable tourism. Ecotravel.com is part online magazine and part ecodirectory that lets you search for touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism and find ways of improving tourism so that local benefits are increased.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of interesting specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Whale-watching is popular from some parts of the Maine coast. For information about the whales you'll be glimpsing (and how to respect them), visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org). For info on traveling lightly in general, see Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org) online.

It's Easy Being Green

We can all help conserve fuel and energy when we travel. Here are a few simple ways you can help preserve your favorite destinations:

* Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than those that must stop and take-off again.

* If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for the most fuel-efficient one available. Not only will you use less gas, you'll also save money at the tank.

* At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. You'll save water and energy by not washing them as often, and you'll prolong the life of the towels, too. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.)

* Turn off the lights and air-conditioner or heater when you exit your hotel room.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Northern New England isn't yet the hotbed of gay culture that, say, Provincetown, Massachusetts, has become. But plenty of gays and lesbians live and travel here, and find these three states accepting of their culture. (Urban areas are a lot more welcoming than small or rural ones.)

Vermont has traditionally been the most open-minded of the three states; it has been a major destination for gay and lesbians who want to marry here since state law acknowledged civil unions in 2000. A local backlash (marked by TAKE BACK VERMONT signs) has arisen in response to passage of the law, but these opponents have so far failed to get the law repealed.

For information on Vermont civil unions, consult the state-run website www.sec.state.vt.us/otherprg/civilunions/civilunions.html.

A number of hotels and inns in the region, ranging from small B&Bs to the larger resorts, welcome gay and lesbian travelers and their friends for civil unions, and a growing number of these inns are actually owned by gay or lesbian couples. Check online ads and advertisements in gay and lesbian community newspapers and magazines for more information.

Ogunquit, on the southern Maine coast, is a hugely popular destination among gay travelers and features a lively beach and bar scene in the summer. In winter, it's still active but mellower. One good place to learn more is from the website www.gayogunquit.com, with information on gay-owned inns, restaurants, and nightclubs in the town.

For a more detailed directory of gay-oriented enterprises in New England, including some coverage of northern New England, track down the Pink Pages, published by KP Media (tel. 617/423-1515; www.pinkweb.com), which also maintains a good website.

There are also plenty of nationwide resources to help plan gay travel. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are Australian gay-tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises; and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmunder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (the Damron guides; www.damron.com), offer separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Some places allow pets, some don't. I've noted inns that allow pets, but even so I don't recommend showing up anywhere with a pet in tow unless you've cleared it over the phone with the innkeeper ahead of time. Note that many establishments have only one or two rooms (often a cottage or room with exterior entrance) set aside for guests traveling with pets, and they won't be quite so happy to see Fido if the "pet room" is already occupied. Also, it's common for a surcharge (usually $10-$20 per pet, per night) to be added to your bill to cover the extra cleaning effort needed by housekeeping staff.

Several websites dispense tips and list animal-friendly lodgings and campgrounds: www.petswelcome.com, www.pettravel.com, and www.travelpets.com together contain thousands of property and campground listings. Also note that all Motel 6 hotel properties accept pets, though they are pretty rare in northern New England.

Keep in mind that dogs are prohibited on most hiking trails, and must be leashed at all times on federal lands administered by the National Park Service (which includes Acadia National Park in Maine). Pets are allowed to hike off-leash in the White Mountains National Forest in New Hampshire and the Green Mountain National Forest in Vermont, but you must control them by voice. No pets are allowed at any time (leashed or unleashed) at Baxter State Park in Maine. Some other Maine state parks do allow pets on a leash.

The Peripatetic Pet -- In hot weather, never leave your pet inside a parked car with the windows rolled up. In fact, it's not a good idea to leave a pet inside a hot car with the windows rolled down, either.

Make sure your pet is wearing a name tag with the name and phone number of a contact person. "Smart" ID tags like Smart-i-tag (www.smartitag.com) serve this function.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Northern New England is well suited to older travelers, with a wide array of activities for seniors and very low crime rates. Mention the fact that you're a senior whenever you make your travel reservations. Throughout the region, travelers over the age of 60 qualify for reduced or free admission to theaters, museums, ski resorts, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- including Acadia National Park, the White Mountain and Green Mountain national forests, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the American the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those ages 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the popular paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2005-2006, 16th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

New regulations issued by the Department of Homeland Security now require virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. to show a passport. As of January 23, 2007, all persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. As of January 31, 2008, U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere will need to present government-issued proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate, along with a government-issued photo ID, such as a driver's license. A passport is not required for U.S. or Canadian citizens entering by land or sea, but carrying one is strongly encouraged.

Visas

The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries (at press time) to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports and proof of residence, however. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-Passport by the symbol on the bottom center cover of your passport.) If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the United States, and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

As of January 2004, many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted on arrival at Customs in airports and on cruise ships in a program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those (mostly in Europe) that don't require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440, or 301/519-6616 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

Customs

What You Can Bring Into the United States -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (tel. 202/927-1770; www.customs.ustreas.gov).

What You Can Take Home from the United States: -- Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling to northern New England. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

The American the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives visually impaired or permanently disabled persons (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. It's especially useful here in northern New England, because it gains the bearer entry into Acadia National Park, the White Mountain National Forest, and the Green Mountain National Forest. Other monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges are also covered by the pass.

The pass can only be obtained in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality) (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com), and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 year U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for the elderly and people with disabilities.

Regions in Brief

Coastal New Hampshire -- Yes, New Hampshire does have a coastline -- okay, only 18 miles of it -- but packed into this tiny area you'll find plenty of sand, surf, honky-tonk beach boardwalks, and sailboat views. As a bonus, there's also the historic and entertaining little city of Portsmouth: a smaller (possibly even better) version of Boston, a great place to shop and drink a beer or a cup of coffee.

The Upper Valley -- The Connecticut River Valley dividing Vermont and New Hampshire is a world unto itself, full of villages, rolling hills, covered bridges, river views, and small-town bakeries. It's got smarts, too: Dartmouth College is here.

Lakes Region -- Lake Winnipesaukee is the crown jewel of New Hampshire's Lakes Region, but other lakes and ponds scattered in the area also add in charm what they lack in size. On Golden Pond was filmed on one of them, though this region's fame and beauty long predate Hollywood's discovery of them.

White Mountains -- Since the mid-1800s, New Hampshire's towering White Mountains have magnetically drawn travelers, with their rugged, windswept peaks, forests dotted with glacial boulders, and clear, rushing streams. You can find New England's best backcountry hiking and camping here . . . but also its wildest weather. Keep a radio and a cellphone handy.

Getting Around

One of my to-do-someday wishes is to travel around northern New England without a car, just once, the way my great-great-grandparents did. It's amazing to think that, barely a hundred years ago, people could travel from seaboard cities to inland towns by trolley, for goodness' sake. I'd love to head for the White Mountains, Mount Desert Isle, or Lake Champlain in a horse and carriage, a fancy rail-car compartment, a steamship cabin, or even just Thoreau-style: on foot.

By Car

In northern New England, the best way -- often the only way -- to get around is by car. The major airports in northern New England all host national car-rental chains. Remember that if you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized -- but you should get an international one anyway if your home license is not in English.

New Englanders are famously caricatured saying, "You can't get there from here," but you may conclude it's no joke when you actually try to navigate through the region yourself. Travel can be convoluted and confusing, and it's a good idea to have someone who's skilled at map reading in the co-pilot's seat with a good map. North-and-south travel is relatively straightforward here, thanks to the four major interstates crisscrossing the region. But traveling east to west (or vice versa) across northern New England is a different proposition, usually involving a byzantine route stitching together various state, federal, and county roads.

On the other hand, northern New England is of a size that touring by car can usually be done pretty comfortably. You can drive from Portland to Hanover or even Burlington in a day. Maine is a lot bigger than the other two states, however; when making your travel plans, beware of two-sided maps that alter the scale from one side to the other. (Portland is actually closer to New York City than it is to the state's northernmost towns.)

Traffic here is generally light compared with that in urban and suburban areas along the East Coast, though there are exceptions; traffic on the interstates coming north from Boston can be heavy or even stopped-still on Friday afternoons and evenings in summer, for instance. A few choke points, such as on U.S. Route 1 on the Maine coast, can back up for a mile or three as tourists jockey to cross two-lane bridges. North Conway, New Hampshire, is famed for its congested traffic, especially during foliage season, but "congested" is a relative term -- this isn't midtown Manhattan.

To avoid the worst of the tourist traffic, travel smart. Try to avoid being on the road during big summer holidays or foliage weekends; if your schedule allows it, travel on weekdays rather than on weekends, and hit the road early or late in the day to avoid the midday crunch.

If you're a connoisseur of back roads and off-the-beaten-track exploring, you'll definitely want to have a DeLorme atlas of the region.

Moose X-ing Ahead: Watch Out! -- Driving across the northern tiers of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, you'll often see MOOSE CROSSING signs, complete with silhouettes of the shaggy, gangly herbivores. These are not here to amuse the tourists. In Maine, collisions between moose and cars are increasingly common; there have been more than 30,000 documented.

These encounters are a lot more dramatic than deer-car collisions. For starters, the big eyes of moose don't reflect in headlights like those of deer do, so late at night you often come upon them suddenly -- too suddenly to stop. Then there's this: Moose can weigh up to 1,000 pounds, with almost all of that weight placed high atop their spindly legs. When a car strikes a moose broadside in the road, it knocks the skinny legs out and sends a half-ton of hapless beast right down through the windshield.

Bad things ensue. Let's just take one year randomly: In 1998 alone, Maine recorded 859 car crashes involving moose, with 247 injuries . . . and five fatalities. When in moose country, if you see those signs, snicker if you like; but drive slowly and carefully thereabouts.

By Bus

Express bus service into the region is quite good (from anywhere farther away than Boston, you'll almost certainly use Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com), but beware of trying to travel within the region by bus. Quirky schedules and routes may send you well out of your way, and what may seem a simple trip can take hours.

For quick information on travel schedules and fares within northern New England, call the two major players: Vermont Transit Lines (tel. 800/552-8737; www.vermonttransit.com) or Concord Coach (tel. 800/639-3317; www.concordcoachlines.com) for service in New Hampshire and Maine.

By Plane

Getting to northern New England by plane is a lot easier than it used to be. But service between airports within the region is sketchy, at best; don't expect to make any inter-New England flights except for those originating in Boston.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) provides limited rail travel within the region, confined to a few stops in Vermont, New Hampshire, and southern Maine. It's not really a valid option for getting around, only for getting here and then leaving.

Tips for Student Travelers

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Getting There

By Plane

Airlines serving northern New England include American (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Continental (tel. 800/523-3273; www.continental.com), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), JetBlue (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com), Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com), United (tel. 800/864-8331; www.united.com), and US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usair.com).

The key hubs for major commercial carriers include Burlington, Vermont; Manchester, New Hampshire; and Portland and Bangor, Maine. Airlines most commonly fly to these airports from New York or Boston, although direct connections from other cities, such as Chicago, Cincinnati, and Philadelphia, are also possible. Remember that many of the commuter flights into northern New England from Boston are short hops aboard smaller prop (propeller-driven) planes; ask the airline or your travel agent before booking if this type of travel makes you nervous.

Several smaller airports in the region are also served by feeder airlines or charter companies, including those in Rutland, Vermont; West Lebanon and Portsmouth, New Hampshire; and Rockport and Trenton (near Bar Harbor) in Maine. These are generally quite a bit more expensive to fly into than the main hubs, but if price is not an object, ask your travel agent to check routings into these airports as well.

Some savvy visitors to northern New England find cheaper fares and a wider choice of flight times by flying into Boston's Logan Airport, then renting a car or connecting by bus to their final destination. (Boston is about 2 hr. by car from Portland, less than 3 hr. from the White Mountains.)

Travelers who want to try this, however, should remember that Boston's airport can become very congested; delayed flights are endemic; and traffic can be nightmarish (Rte. 1A north toward Maine is one good Logan escape route). Then there's this: Following the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks (two of the four doomed flights departed from Boston), increased security has led to periodic but massive delays during check-in and screening.

But the smaller airports such as Bangor and Burlington have not seen these large-scale delays, and travelers might find that the increased expense of using these airports is more than offset by the less stressful experience of speedier check-ins, departures, and arrivals.

Discount airfares aren't normally easy to obtain when flying into these regional airports in northern New England, but some exceptions apply. In the last few years, for instance, the airport in Manchester, New Hampshire, has grown in prominence thanks to the arrival of Southwest Airlines, which has brought competitive, low-cost airfares and improved service. Manchester has gone from a sleepy backwater airport to a bustling destination, eclipsing Portland in numbers of passengers served and charging hard at Boston. Travelers looking for good deals to this region do well to check with Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com) first before pricing bigger gateways.

Upstart discounter JetBlue also offers a direct service between Burlington, Vermont, and New York City's LaGuardia Airport, with onward connections. For more information, call tel. 800/538-2583, or check online at www.jetblue.com.

And new routes and connections into smaller airports are popping up all the time.

Overseas visitors may want to take advantage of the APEX (Advance Purchase Excursion) reductions offered by all major U.S. and European carriers. In addition, some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country.

Flying into Northern New England: The Skinny -- Here's the breakdown of which airlines fly into the region's amalgam of airstrips, airfields, and larger airports:

• Continental flies into Bangor and Portland, Maine, and Manchester, New Hampshire, from Newark Liberty International Airport outside New York City.

• JetBlue flies into Portland and Burlington, Vermont, from New York City's John F. Kennedy International Airport.

• Northwest flies into Burlington, Portland, and Manchester.

• Southwest flies nonstop into Manchester from numerous faraway destinations, including even California and Hawaii.

• United flies into Burlington, Portland, and Manchester.

• US Airways and its commuter subsidiaries (Colgan Air and U.S. Airways Express) fly from Boston, Philadelphia, and New York's LaGuardia to Burlington, West Lebanon/Hanover, New Hampshire, and Manchester, as well as to the following destinations in Maine: Portland, Augusta, Rockland, Bangor, Bar Harbor, and even Presque Isle.

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- Foreign visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of 9/11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

Travelers arriving by air from Canada, Bermuda, and certain Caribbean countries can sometimes clear Customs and Immigration at the point of departure, which is much faster.

By Car

From Boston, New York, and beyond, two interstate highways bring you to northern New England most efficiently.

One of those highways, Interstate 91 (I-91), heads more or less due north from Hartford, Connecticut, up through the middle of Massachusetts, and right alongside the river that forms the Vermont-New Hampshire border all the way to Quebec. It's the best choice for reaching such places as Brattleboro, Vermont, the Monadnock region of New Hampshire, and the Mount Snow ski resort.

The other highway, Interstate 95 (I-95), begins way down in Miami and strikes northeast from New York City through Boston, shaving off a thin (but expensive) slice of New Hampshire and then sailing on through the southern Maine coast. You'll need to exit from I-95 onto U.S. Route 1 to reach Midcoast or Downeast portions of Maine. Finally, the great highway turns north through the heart of the Maine Woods and on to the Canadian border.

You have other options, depending on where you're headed. Take Interstate 93 (I-93) to visit New Hampshire and the White Mountains. In Concord, New Hampshire, Interstate 89 (I-89) splits off from I-93 and arrows northwest to Burlington, Vermont -- grazing Hanover, Montpelier, and Waterbury along the way. This route is best for getting to Stowe or the Mad River Valley.

If scenery is your priority, however, the most picturesque way to enter northern New England from New York City is from the west. Drive north on the New York State Thruway through the scenic Adirondack Mountains to Port Kent, New York, on Lake Champlain, and catch a car ferry across the lake to Burlington. Need a quicker, but still scenic, route? Take the Thruway north as far as Albany; exit for Troy; then roll east into Bennington and southern Vermont.

By Train

Train service into northern New England is limited to just three Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) trains: two to Vermont and one to Maine.

Amtrak's Vermonter service departs from Washington, D.C., once each day, with stops in Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York City before following the Connecticut River northward. The train calls at Brattleboro, Bellows Falls, Claremont (in New Hampshire), White River Junction, Randolph, Montpelier, Waterbury, and Essex Junction (near Burlington), finally arriving in St. Albans some 10 hours after leaving Manhattan.

The Ethan Allen Express departs New York's Penn Station once to twice daily and travels somewhat quicker, moving north along the Hudson River before veering northeast into Vermont, stopping at Fair Haven (near Castleton) and terminating at Rutland after about 5 1/2 hours.

Amtrak relaunched rail service to Maine in late 2001, restoring a line that had been idle since the 1960s. The Downeaster service operates four to five times daily between North Station in Boston and Portland, Maine; if you're coming from elsewhere on the East Coast, you will need to change train stations in Boston -- a slightly frustrating exercise requiring either a taxi ride through congested streets or a ride and transfer on Boston's aging subway system. The Downeaster makes stops in Haverhill, Massachusetts; Exeter, Durham, and Dover, New Hampshire; and Wells, Saco, and Old Orchard Beach, Maine. Travel time is about 2 hours and 25 minutes between Boston and Portland. Bikes are allowed to be on- or off-loaded at Boston, Wells, and Portland. The one-way fare from Boston to Portland was $23 in 2007.

International visitors might want to buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 5, 15, or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See the Amtrak website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Coming from anywhere outside New England, you'll probably need to take a Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) bus to Boston's depot at South Station first, and then switch to a local carrier. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass can be obtained from foreign travel agents or at www.discoverypass.com for unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada.

Once you're here, express bus service is spotty in northern New England -- though it's gotten somewhat better lately. You'll be able to reach the major cities by bus, but few of the smaller towns or villages. Tickets range from about $25, one-way for Boston to Portland, to $45 for Boston to Burlington. Buses require no advance planning or reservations, though buses can fill up on Fridays, Sundays, and around major holidays or holiday travel times.

Two bus lines serve the region. Vermont Transit Lines (tel. 800/552-8737; www.vermonttransit.com) is affiliated with Greyhound and serves all three states -- though mostly just along the interstate highways -- with frequent departures from Boston. Concord Coach Lines (tel. 800/639-3317; www.concordcoachlines.com) and its subsidiaries, Dartmouth Coach and the Boston Express, serve New Hampshire and Maine, including some smaller towns in the Lake Winnipesaukee, Upper Valley, and White Mountains areas.

Which line is better? It depends on where you're going. For cities served by both lines (such as Portsmouth and Portland), Concord Coach buses are a bit more luxurious (and more expensive) than their Vermont Transit counterparts; Concord Coach often entertains travelers with movies (check schedules online) or music piped through headphones.

Fast Facts

American Express -- American Express offers travel services, including check cashing and trip planning, through several affiliated agencies in the region. Offices include locations in West Lebanon, New Hampshire, at 24 Airport Rd. (tel. 603/298-5997), and in South Burlington, Vermont, at 1270 Williston Rd. (tel. 802/872-5600). There are about ten other locations in the two states, though at press time, there were no Amex offices in Maine.

Area Codes -- Vermont's is 802. New Hampshire's is 603. Maine's is 207.

Automobile Organizations -- Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to an auto club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357). AAA is actually an organization of regional auto clubs, so look under "AAA Automobile Club" in the White Pages of the telephone directory. AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP).

Business Hours -- Banks are generally open Monday to Friday 9am to 3pm. Drive-in teller hours are longer. Shops are usually open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturdays from 10am to 6 or 7pm, and Sundays from noon until 5 or 6pm. In bigger cities or in shopping-mall or outlet-shop areas, these hours will be somewhat extended, as late as 9pm during peak summer shopping season.

Currency -- The most common bills are the $1 (a "buck"), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills (the last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases).

Coins come in seven denominations: 1¢ (1 cent, or a penny); 5¢ (5 cents, or a nickel); 10¢ (10 cents, or a dime); 25¢ (25 cents, or a quarter); 50¢ (50 cents, or a half dollar); the gold-colored Sacagawea coin, worth $1; and the rare silver dollar.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

In Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, liquor is sold at state-operated stores grocers, and convenience stores. Restaurants without liquor licenses sometimes allow patrons to bring in their own. Ask first. Bars sell liquor until 2am in Vermont and until 1am in New Hampshire and Maine.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI ("driving under the influence"), so don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- The United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), the same as in Canada and Japan but different from the 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) used in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or log on to www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.austemb.org). There are consulates in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com/usa. New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- For fire, police, and ambulance, find any phone and dial tel. 911. If this fails, dial tel. 0 (zero) and report an emergency.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, in the U.S., the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol), was abnormally high. Northern New England gas prices are not much worse than average around the country; figure on spending about $3.60 per gallon for your expensive fill-up, with taxes already included in that price. There are very few full-service gas stations in northern New England (for some reason, Bennington, Vermont, is an anomaly), and if you do find one, you'll sometimes pay up to 10¢ extra per gallon for the privilege. International travelers should note that one U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal (though not a state) government holiday in presidential-election years, including in 2008.

Some states have their own special state holidays, too. Maine celebrates Patriots' Day on a Monday in mid-April, while Vermont observes Town Meeting Day on the first Tuesday in March and also Bennington Battle Day in mid-August. All state offices are closed on these days. Most state offices in the states also close on the day after Thanksgiving, which changes annually.

Hospitals -- All large and small cities in northern New England maintain good hospital facilities, and some smaller towns have them, too. The quality of service is very good here. If health is a serious issue for you, check ahead with your accommodations (or consult the phone book when you arrive) about the nearest emergency-room service or 24-hour clinic.

In Vermont, there are major hospitals or medical centers in Burlington, Barre, Brattleboro, Rutland, Springfield, St. Albans, and Newport (near the Canada border), and smaller clinics and health centers dispersed throughout the state in places like Bennington, Windsor, Waterbury, and Morrisville. The biggest and best-equipped, by far, is Burlington's Fletcher Allen Health Care facility (tel. 802/847-2345; www.fletcherallen.org), with more than 560 beds.

In New Hampshire, there are plenty of hospitals and medical centers in places like Concord, Manchester, Nashua, Portsmouth, Keene (in the Monadnock region), Claremont, Exeter, New London, Laconia, and Plymouth, among other communities; you're rarely far from a good doctor. One of the best is the Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center (tel. 603/650-5000; www.hitchcock.org), in downtown Hanover, partly staffed by medical students and graduates from adjacent Dartmouth College. If you're going deep into the backcountry of the White Mountains, make sure you're fit enough -- it can take time to get rescued and transported to a clinic in bad weather.

The largest hospital in Maine is the Maine Medical Center (tel. 207/662-0111; www.mmc.org), a professional facility located on a hilltop in a residential neighborhood of Portland at 22 Bramhall St. There's also Mercy Hospital (tel. 207/879-3000; www.mercyhospital.org), a Catholic-owned hospital nearby at 144 State St. in Portland. Both are excellent. Smaller admitting hospitals are located in smaller communities such as York, Biddeford, Brunswick, Damariscotta, Ellsworth, and Bar Harbor. North of Camden, however, they thin out.

Internet Access -- Many public libraries have free terminals with Internet access, enabling travelers to check their e-mail through a Web-based e-mail service such as Yahoo! or Hotmail.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call your embassy or consulate.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 26¢ for a postcard and 41¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 90¢ (69¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com and click on "Calculate Postage."

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery, at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Almost every small town seems to have a daily or weekly newspaper covering the events and happenings of the area. These are good sources of information for small-town events and specials at local restaurants -- the day-to-day things that slip through the cracks at the tourist bureaus. The largest daily papers in each state are the Portland Press Herald (Maine), the Manchester Union Leader (New Hampshire), and the Burlington Free Press (Vermont). Burlington and Portland also have free alternative weeklies that are very handy sources of information on concerts and shows at local clubs. The New York Times and the Wall Street Journal are now often available daily in many shops around the region, except in the smallest towns.

Passports -- For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Police -- For police, dial tel. 911. If this fails, dial 0 (zero) and report an emergency.

Smoking -- Smoking has been banned in all public places (restaurants, bars, offices, hotel lobbies) in all three states as of September 2007.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. The state sales taxes in this region are: Maine, 5% sales (7% on hotels, 10% on auto rentals); New Hampshire, no general sales tax but 8% tax on lodging and dining; and Vermont, 6% sales (but 9% on hotels and dining, and 10% on alcohol in restaurants).

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union. You can telegraph money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% percent of the amount sent.

Many (but not all) hotels have fax machines available for guest use; be sure to ask about the charge to use it. Many hotel rooms are even wired for guests' fax machines. A less expensive way to send and receive faxes may be at stores such as The UPS Store (formerly Mail Boxes Etc.).

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

All three states in northern New England sit in the Eastern time zone (the same as New York and Boston). Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. If possible, avoid the toilets at parks and beaches, which tend to be dirty; some may be unsafe. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Visas -- For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777; or by checking the "Consular Services" section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the website at http://wellington.usembassy.gov.

Health & Insurance

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

For U.K. citizens, insurance is always advisable when traveling in the States. Travelers or families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip-cancellation insurance traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air/hotel packages.

For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance -- Although it's not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home -- but check your coverage before you leave.

International visitors should note that unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Packages such as Europ Assistance's "Worldwide Healthcare Plan" are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States.

If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated in the United States.

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On flights within the U.S., checked baggage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. On flights outside the U.S. (and on U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Staying Healthy

New Englanders, by and large, consider themselves a healthy bunch, which they ascribe to clean living, brisk northern air, vigorous exercise (leaf raking, snow shoveling, and so on), and few excesses other than the stresses and strains of being a Red Sox fan (now greatly alleviated, thank goodness). Other than picking up a stray cold or flu, you shouldn't face any serious health risks when traveling in the region.

Exceptions? Well, yes -- you may find yourself at higher risk when exploring the outdoors, particularly in the backcountry. A few things to watch for when venturing off the beaten track:

• Poison ivy: This shiny, three-leafed plant is common throughout the region. If you touch it, you could develop a nasty, itchy rash that might seriously erode further enjoyment of your vacation. Some people experience a dangerously bad reaction, while others are barely affected at all; it's best to simply just avoid it. If you're unfamiliar with what poison ivy looks like, ask at a ranger station or visitor information booth. Many have posters or books to help you with identification.

• Giardia: That crystal-clear stream coursing down a backcountry peak might look pure, but it could be contaminated with animal feces. Disgusting, yes, and also dangerous. When ingested by humans, Giardia cysts can cause serious diarrhea and loss of weight. The symptoms might not surface until well after you've left the backcountry and returned home. Carry your own water for day trips, or bring a small filter (available at any camping or sporting-goods store) to treat backcountry water. Failing that, at least boil your water or treat it with iodine pills before using it -- even for cooking, drinking, or washing. If you feel diarrhea coming on, see a doctor immediately.

• Lyme disease: Lyme disease has been a growing problem in New England since 1975, when the disease was identified in the town of Lyme, Connecticut; thousands of cases are reported nationwide annually, and they're no trifling matter: Left untreated, Lyme disease can damage the heart. The disease is transmitted by tiny deer ticks, which are difficult to see -- but check your socks and body daily anyway with a partner. If you spot a bull's-eye-shaped rash, 3 to 8 inches in diameter (the rash may feel warm but usually doesn't itch), see a doctor right away. Lyme disease is more easily treated in early phases. Other symptoms may include muscle and joint pain, fever, or fatigue.

• Rabies: Since 1989, rabies has increasingly been spreading northward into New England. The disease is spread by animal saliva and is especially prevalent in skunks, raccoons, bats, and foxes. It is always fatal if left untreated in humans. Infected animals tend to display erratic and aggressive behavior; the best advice is to keep a safe distance between yourself and any wild animal you might encounter. If you're bitten, wash the wound as soon as you can and immediately seek medical attention. Treatment is no longer as painful as it used to be, but still involves a series of shots.

  Those planning longer excursions into the backcountry of northern New England might find a compact first-aid kit with basic salves and medicines very handy to have along. Towns and villages in the three states are reliably stocked with pharmacies, chain grocery stores, and Wal-Mart-type big-box stores where you can stock up on common medicines (such as calamine lotion and aspirin) to cope with minor ailments along the way.

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au

• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html

• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/PolicyAndGuidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en

• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- Hospitals are easy to find in the cities of northern New England; rurally, however, you might need to depend on regional health centers or walk-in clinics.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security.

Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry the generic names of their prescription drugs. Foreign visitors may also need to pay all medical costs upfront in an emergency and seek reimbursement later. For U.S. travelers, most health-care plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home.

Safety

New England -- with the notable exception of parts of Boston -- boasts some of the lowest crime rates in the country. Northern New England is even more so; the odds of anything really bad happening during your visit here are extremely slim. But travelers should always take all the usual precautions against theft, robbery, and assault anyway.

Avoid any unnecessary public displays of wealth, for instance. Don't bring out fat wads of cash from your pocket, and save your best jewelry for private occasions. If you are approached by someone who demands money, jewelry, or anything else, hand it over. Don't argue or negotiate. Just comply. Afterward, contact police right away by dialing tel. 911.

The crime you're statistically most likely to encounter here (as with anywhere in the U.S.) is the theft of items from your car. Don't leave anything of value in plain view, and lock valuables out of sight in your trunk. If you have an electronic security system, use it.

Also take the usual precautions against leaving cash, laptops, or valuables in your hotel room (or at least lying around in the open) whenever you're out of your room. Many hotels have safe-deposit boxes; use them. Smaller inns and hotels often do not offer any kind of safe, but it can't hurt to check.

Finally, when traveling late at night, look for a well-lighted area if you need to gas up or step out of your car for any reason.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages for the Independent Traveler

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Conde Nast Traveler.

Ask Before You Go -- Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

• Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is there a deposit required?

• Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in this book, and check rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also find out what types of rooms are offered.

• Request a complete schedule (for escorted tours only).

• Ask about the size and demographics of the group (for escorted tours only).

• For escorted tours, discuss what's included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and so on).

• Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motor coach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Special-Interest Trips

One rewarding way to spend a vacation is to learn a new outdoor skill or add to your knowledge while on holiday. You can find plenty of options in northern New England, ranging from formal weeklong classes to 1-day workshops.

There are lots of options; here are three of the best:

• Learn to fly-fish on New England's fabled rivers. Among the region's most respected schools are those offered by Orvis (tel. 888/235-9763), in Manchester, Vermont; and L.L.Bean (tel. 800/343-4552), in Freeport, Maine. (L.L.Bean also offers a number of shorter workshops on various outdoor skills through its Outdoor Discovery Program; call tel. 888/552-3261.)

• Learn about birds and coastal ecosystems in Maine. Budding and experienced naturalists can expand their understanding of marine wildlife while residing on 333-acre Hog Island in Maine's wild and scenic Muscongus Bay through the Maine Audubon Society, 20 Gilsland Farm Rd., Falmouth, ME 04105 (tel. 207/781-2330; www.maineaudubon.org). You're brought by boat, and then stay on the island for 3 to 7 nights. Famed birder Roger Tory Peterson once taught birding classes here; and I can personally vouch for Maine Audubon's other outdoors and educational programs, too. Call or visit their lovely headquarters near Portland.

• Sharpen your outdoor skills. The Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy St., Boston, MA 02108 (tel. 800/372-1758 or 617/523-0636; www.outdoors.org), offers a full roster of outdoor adventure classes, many taught at the club's Pinkham Notch Camp at the base of New Hampshire's Mount Washington. You could learn outdoor photography, wild mushroom identification, or backcountry orienteering. In winter, ice-climbing and telemark-skiing lessons are taught in the White Mountains. Course fees often include accommodations, and most are reasonably priced. Call or write for a catalog.

Northern New England also especially lends itself to outdoorsy adventures that combine fresh air and exercise with Mother Nature as your instructor in a vast, beautiful classroom.

For Those Who Love Historic Homes -- Historic New England is a nonprofit foundation that owns and operates 36 historical properties around New England, ranging from places built in the 17th century to the present, including a number of properties profiled in this book. Members get into all of the organization's properties for free, and receive a number of other benefits including a subscription to Historic New England magazine; a guide to the group's properties; and invitations to members-only events and other perks. Memberships cost $45 per year for individuals, $55 for households. For more information on Historic New England and its properties, visit the group's website at www.historicnewengland.org, or call the organization's Boston headquarters at tel. 617/227-3957.

Tips for Families

Families have little trouble finding fun, low-key things to do with kids in northern New England. The natural world seems to hold tremendous wonder for the younger set -- an afternoon exploring mossy banks and rocky streambeds can be a huge adventure. Older kids may like the challenge of climbing a mountain peak or learning to paddle a canoe in a straight line, and the beach is always good for hours of afternoon diversion.

Be sure to ask about family discounts when visiting attractions. Many places offer a flat family rate that is less than paying for each ticket individually. Some parks and beaches charge by the car rather than the head.

Also, when planning your trip be aware that certain small inns cater only to couples and prefer that families not stay there, or at least prefer that children be over a certain minimum age. This guidebook notes the recommended age for children where restrictions apply, but it's always best to ask first, just to be safe. At any rate, if you mention that you're traveling with kids when making reservations, often you'll get accommodations nearer the game room or the pool, making everyone's life a bit easier.

Recommended destinations in northern New England for families include Lake Winnipesaukee and Lake Sunapee in New Hampshire (for splashing around and kid-friendly attractions), York Beach and Acadia National Park in Maine (ditto), and Waterbury, Vermont, for its famous ice-cream factory. North Conway, New Hampshire, also makes a good base for families with young kids; the town has lots of motels with pools, as well as minitrain rides, streams suitable for splashing around, easy hikes, and the distraction known as Story Land.

Some recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Money

Here's a scene I've seen repeated dozens of times around Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont. It's late Saturday afternoon, maybe early in July. A young (or not-so-young) couple has driven up from the city by car or motorcycle, just for the day, in sparkling clear weather. But something magical has happened. They've fallen in love with each other all over again, and with the quaint lovely New England-ness of (insert town name here). They've decided to stay for the night in a feather bed, eat a nice meal, and maybe watch the sun set over the (ocean/mountains/lake), and head home tomorrow morning fully assured that all is right with the world.

Except that here they stand, before a tourist information center staff member, looking despondent (or even desperate) as the staffer holds a phone in one hand, waiting for an answer.

"Isn't there anything cheaper?" pleads one of the lovebirds. "No, and that's a good price," responds the person behind the desk as kindly as possible. "You won't find anything better."

Yes, travelers are in for a little sticker shock here in northern New England, at least during peak travel seasons. In midsummer, there's simply no such thing as a cheap motel room in places like Winnipesaukee, Portland, Portsmouth, southwestern Vermont, Camden, or Bar Harbor. Even no-frills mom-and-pop motels can and do sometimes happily charge $100 a night or more for a bed that could fairly be described as a notch above car-camping. Blander-than-bland chain hotels demand even more.

To be fair, innkeepers in some of these tourist areas must reap nearly all their annual profits in what amounts to just a 2- or 3-month season each year, so that's one reason for the astronomical rates.

Anyhow, take heart. Except during peak foliage season and holidays, the cost of rooms, meals, and day-to-day expenses is generally a lot less here than you'd pay in a major non-New England city. You can find excellent entrees at upscale, creative restaurants for around $20, comparing favorably with similar dishes at big-city restaurants that would top $30.

Still, lodging here is more expensive than in almost any other rural part of the United States (see above about the paucity of cheap motels), and planning can prove tricky for budget travelers.

So you'll need money to enjoy yourself here. It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money at an airport ATM upon arrival.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). ATMs are easy to find in New England's populated areas and regions that cater to tourists. Machines are also making their way into the smallest villages, but don't count on finding them in every last town; stock up on cash when you can.

The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM; the fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may also charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad.

Credit Cards & Debit Cards

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the United States: Visa (Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard (EuroCard in Europe, Access in Britain, Chargex in Canada), American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash.

It's highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

ATM cards with major credit card backing, known as "debit cards," are now a commonly acceptable form of payment in most stores and restaurants. Debit cards draw money directly from your checking account. Some stores enable you to receive cash back on your debit-card purchases as well. The same is true at most U.S. post offices.

Traveler's Checks

Though credit cards and debit cards are most commonly used, traveler's checks are still widely accepted in the U.S. Foreign visitors should make sure their traveler's checks are denominated in U.S. dollars; foreign-currency checks are usually difficult or impossible to exchange in northern New England.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. Most are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233; tel. 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a copy of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Tips on Accommodations

"The more we travel," said an unhappy couple one morning at a New Hampshire inn, "the more we realize why we go back to our old favorites time and again." The reason for their chagrin? They had been forced to switch rooms at 2 o'clock in the morning when rain began dripping right onto them through the ceiling. I hasten to add that this story is not an isolated incident. Small, quaint inns here often come with their own drips, creaks, and quirks.

Of course, northern New England is famous for its plethora of country inns and bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs), which offer a wonderful alternative to the sort of cookie-cutter, chain-hotel rooms that line U.S. highways from coast to coast. But (as the unhappy couple learned) there are reasons why some people prefer the cookie-cutter hotels. In a chain hotel, you can be reasonably sure that water won't drip through your ceiling in the middle of the night. Likewise, the beds will be firm, the sink will be relatively new, and you'll have a TV, telephone, and counter space next to the bathroom sink.

Every inn and B&B listed in this guide yields a decent, and often a high-quality, experience. Just keep in mind that each place is different, and you need to match the personality of the place with your own personality. Some inns are more polished and fussier than others; this is a rural area, so a lot of them (even some calling themselves "resorts") lack basic amenities to which business travelers have grown accustomed in chain hotels. (In-room phones and air-conditioning lead the list.)

Inn vs. B&B: Everybody Wins

The difference between an inn and a B&B may be confusing for some travelers, since the gap between the two narrows by the day. A couple of decades ago, inns were full-service affairs, whereas B&Bs consisted of private homes with an extra bedroom or two and a homeowner looking for a little extra income. These old-style B&Bs still exist around the region. I've occupied a few evenings sitting in a well-used living room with the owner, watching TV as if visiting with a forgotten aunt.

Today, B&Bs are more commonly professionally run affairs, where guests have private bathrooms, a separate common area, and attentive service. The owners have apartments tucked away in the back, prepare sumptuous breakfasts in the morning (some B&Bs offer "candlelight breakfasts"), and offer a high level of service. All the B&Bs in this guide are of the more professionally run variety (although several or more still have shared bathrooms). Other guidebooks are available for those searching for home-stay lodging.

The sole difference between inns and B&Bs -- at least as defined by this guide -- is that inns serve dinner (and sometimes lunch). B&Bs provide breakfast only. Readers shouldn't infer that B&Bs are necessarily more informal or in any way inferior to a full-service inn. That's true for many of the other B&Bs listed in this guide; with a little luck, you'll stumble into Ralph Waldo Emerson's idea of simple contentment: "Hospitality consists in a little fire, a little food, and an immense quiet."

Nail Down That Cancellation Policy! -- When making reservations, it's essential that you get down (in writing, via printed-out website confirmation, or by e-mail) some confirmation of your hotel's or inn's exact cancellation policy. Since they're going to take your credit card as a deposit in almost every case, you'll need this information in case your trip is waylaid for any reason at all.

There's an amazing variety of policies out there. Some places give you all your money back if you cancel early enough; a cutoff of 24 hours before arrival is standard as a deadline, but some lodging establishments require 1 week's advance notice of a cancellation, and some will let you cancel at 6pm on the day of arrival! Some properties refund all of your deposit, even if you missed the deadline (mostly very small places do this, when they know they can sell the room again). Most properties keep 1 night's fee if you missed the deadline. And a few give you nothing back, no matter what.

As you can see, policies range from generous to outrageous. One Frommer's reader canceled a reservation at a Vermont motel 2 days before arriving because a hurricane had just veered into her home state. "Sorry," she was told, "cancellations must be made 1 week in advance." Give me a break.

Service Charges -- Rather than increase room rates in the face of rising competition, hotels, inns, and B&Bs are increasingly tacking on nickel-and-dime fees to their guests' bills. Most innkeepers will tell you about these fees when you reserve or check in; a few will surprise you at checkout.

The most common is an involuntary "service charge" of 10% to 15%. Coupled with state lodging taxes (even "sales-tax-free" New Hampshire hits tourists with an 8% levy), the cost of a bed is bumped up nearly 25%. (The rates listed in this guide don't include service charges or sales tax.)

Other charges may include a pet fee ($10 or more per day extra), a foliage-season surcharge ($10-$50 per room), and a "resort fee" (15%-20% tax at certain resorts). Some hotels even tack on a $1 per day fee for the presence of an in-room safe, whether it is used or not.

Tips for Black Travelers

Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family-reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include: Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com); the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com); and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com).

Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press) is a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde. The African-American Travel Guide by Wayne C. Robinson (Hunter Publishing; www.hunterpublishing.com) was published in 1997, so it may be somewhat dated. Travel and Enjoy Magazine (tel. 866/266-6211) is a travel magazine and guide. The well-done Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.com) includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana to upcoming ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.

When to Go

The Seasons

The well-worn joke about the climate in northern New England is that it has just two seasons -- winter and August. Though this bromide might have originated as a ploy to keep outsiders from moving up here (and it worked, partly), there's also a kernel of truth to it. But don't worry. The ever-shifting seasons here are precisely what make northern New England so distinctive, and three of the four are genuinely enjoyable. The fourth (which is not the one you might have guessed) is, well, tolerable.

Summer -- The peak summer season in northern New England runs from the 4th of July weekend until Labor Day weekend. That's a pretty slim stretch, only about 8 1/2 weeks. But, my gosh, does the population of each of these states ever swell between the starting line and summer's checkered flag! Vast crowds surge into northern New England on each of these two holiday weekends, and a constant stream also moves northward daily in between them.

It's no wonder. Summers here are exquisite, particularly since the daylight lasts so long -- until 9 or 9:30pm in late June and early July. Forests are verdant and lush; the sky is a deep blue, the cumulus clouds puffy and almost painfully bright white. In the mountains, warm days are the rule, followed by cool nights. On the coast, ocean breezes keep temperatures down even when it's triple-digit steaming in the big cities. (Of course, these sea breezes sometimes also produce thick, soupy fogs that linger for days.) In general, expect moderation: In Portland, the thermometer tops 90°F (32°C) for only 4 or 5 days each year, at most.

Weather in this region is largely determined by the winds. Summer's southwesterly winds bring haze, heat, and humidity (to everywhere except the seashore); northwesterly winds bring cool bright weather and knife-sharp views. These systems tend to alternate during the summer, the heat and humidity building slowly and stealthily for a few days -- then swiftly getting kicked out on its ear by stiff, cool winds pressing down from Canada. Then the pattern repeats. Rain is rarely far away in summer -- some days it's in the form of an afternoon thunderstorm, sometimes a steady drizzle that brings a 3- or 4-day soaking. On average, about 1 day in 3 here will bring some rain. But, hey, that's what keeps the Green Mountains green.

For most of this region (we'll get to Vermont in a moment), midsummer is prime time. Expect to pay premium prices at hotels and restaurants. (The exception is around the empty ski resorts, where you can often find bargains.) Also be aware that early summer brings out scads of biting black flies and mosquitoes, which has spoiled many North Country camping trips. Come prepared for these guys. They've been up here a lot longer than we have, and they seem to like it just fine.

What to do? Play some golf. Go hiking in the woods. Swim in the ocean. Catch a minor-league baseball game. Or, indulge in my favorite activity: rocking in a chair on a screened front or back porch, reading a book, playing guitar, or just listening intently to the sounds of loons or crickets and watching the night sky for stars you never knew existed.

Autumn -- Don't be surprised to smell the tang of fall approaching even as early as mid-August, when you'll also begin to notice a few leaves turning blaze-orange on the maples at the edges of wetlands or highways. Fall comes early to northern New England and stays for some time. The foliage season begins in earnest in the northern part of the region by the third week in September; in the southern portions, it reaches its peak by mid-October. But it's beautiful everywhere.

Fall in New England is one of the great natural spectacles in the world. When its rolling hills tart up in brilliant reds and stunning oranges, grown men pull to the sides of roads and fall to their knees weeping (and snapping, and Handycamming); the scenery is garish in a way that seems deviously designed to tease and embarrass shy, understated New England. The best part? This spectacle is nearly regular as clockwork, with only a few years truly "bad" for foliage (due to oddly warm or wet weather).

Keep in mind, however, that this is the most popular time of year to travel here -- bus tours flock like migrating geese to New England in early October. As a result, hotels are invariably booked solid at that time. (Local radio stations have been known to put out calls for residents to open up their doors to stranded travelers who otherwise might have to sleep in their cars.) Reservations are essential. Don't be surprised if you're assessed a foliage surcharge of $10 or $50 or more per room at your inn or hotel; deal with it. You can't buy scenery like this.

All three states maintain seasonal foliage hotlines and/or websites to let you know when the leaves are at their peak: Maine (tel. 888/624-6345; www.mainefoliage.com), New Hampshire (tel. 800/258-3608), or Vermont (tel. 800/VERMONT; www.travel-vermont.com/seasons/report.asp). The U.S. Forest Service also maintains a foliage hotline at tel. 800/354-4595, updating conditions within the White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire.

Winter -- New England winters are like wine -- some years are good, some are lousy. During a good season, mounds of light, fluffy snow blanket the deep woods and fill the ski slopes. A "good" winter offers a profound peace and tranquillity as the fresh snow muffles all noise and brings such a thunderous silence to the entire region that the hiss and pop of a wood fire at a country inn can seem noisome. During these good winters, exploring the forest on snowshoes or cross-country skis is an experience bordering on the magical.

During the other winters, though -- the yucky ones -- the weather fairies instead bring a nasty mélange of rain, freezing rain, and sleet (um, frozen rain). The woods become filled with crusty snow, the cold is damp and bone-numbing, and it's bleak, bleak, bleak, as gunpowder-gray clouds lower and linger for weeks.

There are some cures for this malaise. The higher-elevation you go into the mountains of northern New England, or the farther north you head (to such places as Jay, Vermont), the better your odds of finding snow.

On the other hand, meteorologically speaking, the coast in winter is a crapshoot at best, more likely to yield rain (or sticky, heavy "snowball" snow) than powdery snow. Yes, winter vacations on the ocean can be spectacular -- think Winslow Homerian waves crashing onto and obliterating some poor little beach -- but after a day or two of trying to navigate your car around big gray-slush snow banks, you too will soon be heading for Stowe.

Naturally, ski areas get crowded during the winter months. Some of them get very crowded. Expect maximum pricing, so-so food, and a herd mentality; this is the price you pay for enjoying great skiing in the region. The resorts get especially packed during school vacations, which is just when many resorts choose to employ the rather mercenary tactic of jacking up rates at hotels and on the slopes.

By the way, if you visit a small town in this region during winter, there is another pleasure to enjoy during deepest winter: public ice skating and ice hockey. You'll find locals skating on town greens, lakes, ponds, rivers, and probably on top of swimming pools, for all I know -- anywhere that will hold a little water. How do you find these spots? Easy. Look for a clump of cars beside an iconic little warming hut with a wood- or oil-burning stove inside, sending up smoke puffs like a signal to the masses.

You call this rustic? Well, I call it heaven.

Spring -- I'm not going to lie to you: After the long, long winters, spring in northern New England is a tease. Oh, she promises a lot, and she does come dressed in some finery (see the delicate purple lilacs, which blossom for a week). But in many years, spring only lasts for a week, and sometimes even less than that (I'm not kidding); it's often around mid-May but sometimes as late as June. There's a reason northern New Englanders hardly ever use the word "spring" in conversation with peers. They just call this time of year "mud season." Next time you're here, listen carefully; you'll see what I mean.

It happens so quickly. One morning the ground is muddier than muddy, the trees barren, and gritty snow is still collected in shady hollows. The next day, it's in the 80s Fahrenheit and humid, maple trees are blooming with little red clover-like buds, kids are swimming in the lakes where the docks have just been put in, and somewhere in New Hampshire, as we speak, a blue cover is being ripped off an aboveground pool.

Travelers need to be awfully crafty to experience spring in northern New England -- and once they get here, they often have trouble finding a room. That's because a good number of innkeepers and restaurateurs close up for a few weeks for repairs or to venture someplace warm. The upside? Rates are never cheaper than they are in spring. It's simply jaw-dropping how little you can pay in March for the same exact room that would cost 3 to 10 times more in the middle of summer or October.