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This family-run hotel has a healthy dose of character, from the flickering gas lamps and jumbly layout to the rumored ghosts (it’s a former Civil War hospital). The quiet, high-ceilinged rooms were renovated in 2017; those facing the street still get a bit of noise but nothing serious). The better ones have non-working fireplaces or huge windows; the best—on the upper floors, accessible only by stairs—reward climbers with peek-a-boo river views. We’re also fond of those that open onto the small courtyard and fountain; another courtyard is mostly pool. Rooms were spruced in 2017, when a nod to modernity was added to the mix of antiques, reproductions, and hotel traditional; rooms also have a sweetly sequestered bar. The lobby’s Ice Bar feels like your own private space.