This family-run hotel has a healthy dose of character, from the flickering gas lamps to the rumored ghosts (it’s a former Civil War hospital) to the quiet, high-ceilinged rooms (those facing the street still get some noise). The better ones have non-working fireplaces or huge windows; the best—on the upper floors, accessible only by stairs—reward the climbers with peek-a-boo river views. We’re also fond of those that open onto the small courtyard (though they’re all a bit of an antiques mish-mosh meets reproduction heaven). Bathrooms were infused with sparkling white marble in a 2014 upgrade, which also added a sweetly sequesterd bar. Another courtyard is mostly pool; complimentary breakfast is basic but welcome, while on-premise restaurant Angeline is terrific.