Tucked away in the backwaters of the Bywater neighborhood is a Victorian treasure with one of the better backyards we’ve seen: there's a big pool and a cabana bar which seems to have a strong gravitational pull. Six rooms are in the high-ceilinged main house, and two are in separate private cottages; all were smartly decorated (not overly so) with old and new pieces. Room sizes vary as do bathrooms; some are shower-only style, others have a deep Jacuzzi tub. The Storyville room works well with its loft space but is not for the claustrophobic; the others are amply sized, and some open over the courtyard for added airiness. Add plush bedding, a generous sit-down breakfast (crawfish sweet potato Benedict!), and the pet-friendly, inherently neighborly ambience and you’re nearly a local. You’ll definitely want a car or bike.