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There’s a kind of hush at this ultra-fine hotel, for decades the center of New Orleans high society. Everything is serene and mannerly, from the proper high tea to mind-blowing hallway galleries of original 17th- to 19th-century art to the restaurant—the highest-end Grill Room. A massive recent overhaul refreshed all the fabrics and finery; service improved and the city’s indisputably best hotel spa was added. The spacious accommodations are traditional if not particularly distinctive in silvery blue, gold, and creamy ivory. Suites are large-windowed, light-filled, and enormous. Those with balconies and river views are exceptional (though some “view” rooms are only partial views), and a ritzy club level adds 24/7 concierge service. The outstanding rooftop pool is one of several superb places for smart beverages here; along with the cool Cocktail Bar and chichi Polo Club are also on that list.