If you were to take a drive up Magazine Street, you could probably fall out of the cab and into the door of a good bistro or restaurant along any stretch of the street. But some are better than others. Appoline, a relative newcomer, is one of them. The sweet front porch of this converted Creole cottage conceals the creamy tones and bleached hardwood walls of the fully updated interior. We can’t help thinking that in other cities (or other times), this room would be full of close conversations and hushed tones. Here it’s a bit more casual; jeans mix with suits, and laughter permeates the place. Maybe it’s the excellent cocktails and keen, reasonable wine list. Maybe it’s the playful watermelon and crabmeat salad starter, with a sprinkling of feta cheese and pistachios. Or the crunchy fried quail, sharing the plate with a chunk of lush pork belly. Probably it’s the signature “Hooty Tootie Pie,” the exploded adult peanut butter cup with a name too silly to say out loud. So just point to it on the dessert menu.