There are great old bones all ‘round in this sophisticated Southern rustic restaurant—in the centuries-old restored building; in the creepy-cool zombie portraits; in the hearty roast lamb on a bed of delicate pureed celery root. There’s some old Gulf, some new Spain, and noted Chef Justin Devillier throws his classical French chops around. As in the slices of rabbit and ham roulade stuffed with roasted mushrooms in a sleek jus. Still, the best times might be had in the bar or on the sexy veranda, working through a few bright selections from the impressive wine list and delving into a series of small plates of Gulf goodness off the Garde Manger (cold) station: icy raw oysters; chilled broccolini with a sharp mustardy dip; vibrantly composed beets, marinated berries, and creamy Spanish sheep cheese sprinkled with pistachios.