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After celebrating 25 years in business, we'll forgive Chef/Owner Susan Spicer if her modern classic restaurant has slipped a notch. The food, cocktails, and wine list are still thoughtful and inspired, if no longer at the tippy-top of the heap. The ambiance inside and out is positively lovely, and if service occassionally suffers a tad, that is the exception. Begin with the signature cream of garlic soup; and select among extremes of sweetbreads with lemon caper butter (another signature), any rabbit preparation, or whatever vegetarian dish is on–ever-changing preparations of the latter are consistently superb. At lunch, the famed smoked duck with cashed butter and pepper jelly is still a clever flavor bomb. Desserts center on seasonal fruits, like the divine mango cheesecake flan with pistachio crust and blackberries. Deal alert: Wednesday through Saturday's $28 light lunch features three small-plate options. Reservations requried for dinner; book early.