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We like Borgne, the fish-focused John Besh property helmed by Chef Brian Landry, formerly of Galatoire’s. We like its easygoing vibe and the well-versed servers who show up when we want them to and don’t when we don’t. We like most of the items we’ve tried here, with their interesting Spanish accents. We love that they serve a $10-plate lunch every day, especially Tuesday’s ropa vieja. We like the cool-looking, shell-crusted columns, the loooong bar and the friendly service there. In fact, we quite like dining in the bar, separated from the main room by a low wall (and strung with televisions). Now that they've wisely taken steps to reduce the once-intolerable din, we can talk about how good the soothing oyster spaghetti is, or ask our friend if she’s going to eat that last duck popper—a bacon-jalapeño rillette that we’re still thinking about. Whatever’s on special is a good bet here, and the server may push the Hummingbird cake on you; stick with the chocolate hazelnut puddin’. Make dinner reservations in advance during peak periods.