Boucherie

When Boucherie opened, we wrestled with the selfish, tell-or-don’t-tell moral dilemma. We told, as did everyone, and last year it moved to a larger location. Spiffed up the menu a wee bit too—the better to detach from its former locale’s new life as Bourrée, 1510 S. Carrolton Ave. (www.burreenola.com; 504/510-4040), which is crushing it as an amped-up wing, barbecue, and daiquiri shack. The food at Boucherie retains its original sense of playfulness (not so much the rather cramped room), and prices remain solidly affordable for what chef/owner (and Chopped alum) Nathaniel Zimet calls “fine dining for the people.” The menu is limited, but most everything has Cajun-inflected, meaty goodness (and dashes of global influences). At dinner, the deeply savory brisket, is piled with crispy, Parmesan-sprinkled fries (too good to share; get an extra side); at lunchtime you can rock a po’boy loaf topped with fresh horseradish sauce, or the sweet pulled-pork cake piled with tangy, acidic purple slaw or slivers of pickled pear. We wouldn’t ignore the blackened shrimp and grit cake, either. Super-sweet Krispy Kreme bread pudding is no longer the hilarious curiosity it once was; choose the Thai chili chocolate pie instead (or don’t choose—get both).