After a fall to lesser heights, brief closure, ownership change, and all-in $20-plus-million renovation, Brennan’s is back in all its pink glory and then some. The look and feel of the elegant dining room and charming courtyard and the attentive service all scream old New Orleans, but there’s nothing tired on the plate: The noted new chef is twisting Creole classics into updated plates of newfound awesome. Still service-driven, it’s polished and exciting, and breakfast at Brennan’s is still an automatic celebration. First course: cocktails, as in a milk punch (theirs has rum) or a Ramos Fizz. Chef does well with breakfast meats, and the egg preparations are pretty perfect, so we choose his house-smoked duck ham or crispy veal cheek grillades. You need a side of the BBQ lobster, slow-roasted in the shell with mild Creole spice. At dinner, the crispy, Asian-influenced roast duck is phenomenal; beef Stanley with mushrooms, caramelized banana, and a truffle-infused sauce stands out. The signature turtle soup is well sherried, and we’re promised that the turtles living on the premises won’t ever…well, you know. Bananas Foster, born here in 1951 and prepared tableside, make for a flaming fun finale. Come back Friday for the weekly Champagne sabering—the bottle-slicing ceremony is at 5pm.