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After a fall to lesser heights, brief closure, ownership change, and all-in $20-million-plus renovation, Brennan’s is back in all its pink glory and then some. The look and feel of the elegant dining room and charming courtyard and the attentive service all scream old New Orleans, but there’s nothing tired on the plate: The terrific chef twists Creole classics into updated plates of newfound awesome. Still service-driven, it’s polished and exciting (breakfast at Brennan’s is still an automatic celebration). First course: cocktails, as in a rum-spiked milk punch or a Ramos Fizz. Chef does well with breakfast meats, and the egg preparations are pretty perfect, so we choose his house-smoked duck ham or crispy veal cheek grillades. You need a side of the BBQ lobster, slow-roasted in the shell with mild Creole spice. At dinner, the crispy, Asian-influenced roast duck is phenomenal; beef Stanley with mushrooms, caramelized banana, and a truffle-infused sauce stands out. The signature turtle soup is well sherried, and we’re promised that the turtles living on the premises won’t ever…well, you know. Bananas Foster, born here in 1951 and prepared tableside, make for a flaming fun finale. Come back Friday for the 5pm Champagne sabering ceremony. Deal alert: The two-course breakfast/lunch menu is a steal for $28.