About a week after opening BABs, as Nina Compton’s second New Orleans restaurant is known, she snagged the James Beard award for Best Chef: South for Compère Lapin, her flagship locale. No pressure. And still she persists……and rises to meet her own high bar. This more casual spot is no less inventive, featuring flavor profiles, techniques, and ingredients from NOLA and the Caribbean by way of Europe that spark the palate in ways both newfound and comforting. A crispy fried brick of hearty hog’s head boudin sausage balances the rustic side, while tender, sweet duck breast satisfies for sophistication. Flavor-packed crab fat rice and the anything-but-innocuous roasted cabbage round out a fine meal. That said, the biggest hit is the simple spaghetti pomodoro: It’s perfection. Desserts didn’t wow (we’ll give it time) but the bar program is solid, and a seat there is a fun hang.