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Every neighborhood in every city should have a charming, casual French bistro that serves a perfect salad Niçoise and has a tree growing in the middle of the indoor/outdoor dining room. But only Faubourg St. John has it. It’s darling, perfectly suited to a romantic dinner or a gals’ lunch. Traditional favorites like escargot, hanger steak, and rack of lamb are straightforward, flavorful, and generous; a delicate roast quail starter was tempting to double as an entrée. It’s a popular spot, particularly for brunch, so reserve ahead. Check www.restaurant.com and the cafe website for coupons. Reserve in advance during peak periods.