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We admit we’re not fully on board with the heaps of praise Cochon gets, and we speak fluent pork. It’s good, sometimes very good, and one of the few games in town for Cajun food—the rustic, country cousin to big-city Creole cooking. Cochon’s version is, of course, amped up several notches: This is Donald Link and Steve Stryjewski Cajun, after all. But others are bowled further over. Still, the things they do well, they do very well, so we’ll point you in that direction, beginning with the three S’s: Starters, Sides, and Small Plates. We think this is where they shine. All visits to Cajun country should kick off with some cracklins and a good local beer, like the Parish Canebrake. Follow with the boudin balls—crunchy outside, savory and porky inside, with a side of creamy, burnished mac and cheese. For a hog break, the briny bite of wood-fired oysters or the chicken livers with pepper jelly will do. The fork-tender pork cheeks are disappointing only in terms of serving size (so get two orders), and the skillet-baked rabbit and dumplings is a soul-warming dish that, if you skip everything else, should not be missed. The ambrosia cake is a potluck-perfect finish (well, not like the potlucks we go to)—a creamy, fruity, happy ending. Reserve well in advance.