Locals give this low-profile spot steady love, understandably given the shrewd use of seasonal and local products, cheerful This Old House interior, and obliging staff. Their lively New Orleans cuisine comes with little surprises, alternately simple and refined. At dinner, hope that the herb-suffused redfish “on the half shell” is on the menu, or go for crispy confit pork steak with braised greens and an apple compote—just like mom never made. Despite these pork-focused suggestions, most everything they do with veggies is wondrous; you could make a meal of just them (a pea soup with crab butter and bacon counts). Brunch is a strong alternative. We like their reworked Benedict, in which tender rosemary-crusted pork replaces Canadian bacon, honey sweetens the hollandaise, and a caramelized biscuit supports it all. It’s a ways from the FQ, but just 2 blocks off the St. Charles streetcar line where it makes the big turn onto Carrollton Avenue (Hampson stop). Reserve in advance during peak periods (reservations not accepted for brunch).