Upscale Doris audaciously displays its dry aging beef in the front window like an Amsterdam madam. Besides the distinctive, slightly pungent flavor of dry-aged steaks (theirs are sourced from raised-to-specification cattle), the Israeli-based restaurant brings some Middle Eastern touches to its menu, like a delectable charred eggplant appetizer with glossy tahini. Servers are warm and knowledgeable to the allowable extent (the “classified cut” is described by flavor and texture, but the actual cut is not betrayed; we’ll spill: it’s a luscious ribeye cap). The room’s indisputably handsome presentation—beginning with the artsy olive oil—is downright beautiful. Locals have embraced the hopping bar with its beguiling wines and open-kitchen view, and a luxe, chill vibe permeates the moneyed air in the comfortable dining rooms. The juicy pan-glazed chicken that knocked us over wouldn’t be our logical first choice; the silken tuna tartare is superb. But ultimately, it’s about the beef. After a couple of initial missteps, in due time we found the carnivorous knowledge we sought in the Butcher’s Cut, its crunch of char displaying a perfectly marbled, ultra-flavorful, and densely sensuous mouthful.