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Doris opened to much fanfare in late 2013, audaciously displaying its dry aging beef in the front window like an Amsterdam madam. Besides the distinctive, slightly pungent flavor of dry-aged steaks (theirs are sourced from raised-to-specification cattle), the Israeli-based restaurant brought some Middle Eastern touches to its menu, like a delectable charred eggplant appetizer with glossy tahini. Servers are warm and knowledgeable to the allowable extent (the “classified cut” is described by flavor and texture, but the actual cut is not betrayed; we’ll spill: it’s a luscious ribeye cap). The room’s indisputably handsome presentation—from artsy olive oil forward—is downright beautiful. Locals have embraced the hopping bar with its beguiling wines and open-kitchen view, and a luxe, chill vibe permeates the moneyed air in the comfortable dining rooms. There were serious missteps on our first visit here—an inedibly tough steak (returned to the chef, who concurred and corrected it), and a serious overcharge on the bill. But we persevered, and things notably improved—with some of the non-steak items, oddly enough, faring best. The juicy pan-glazed chicken that knocked us over wouldn’t be our logical first choice; the silken tuna tartare is superb. But ultimately, it’s about the beef. In due time, we found the carnivorous knowledge we sought in the Butcher’s Cut, its crunch of char displaying a perfectly marbled, ultra-flavorful, and densely sensuous mouthful. All is forgiven.