We’re so glad that this charming neighborhood gem is back, 12 years after its watery demise. And that the revered, signature roast duck is back on the menu in all its dusky sweetness. The warm French blue exterior in the midst of Orleans Avenue in the Tremé is a welcoming beacon to the creative Cajun and Creole riffs within (i.e., why have garlic butter frites when you can have guava garlic butter frites with hanger steak?). Regulars table-hop between bowls of smoked quail gumbo, a concoction that reaches to the delicious depths of dark roux. The BBQ shrimp-sweet potato pie appetizer positively works; braised rabbit comes delicately topped with rose-petal syrup, grapes, and caramelized onion. And then, all the desserts. We mean it. We can’t pick.