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Tucked away in a residential Uptown neighborhood, with no signage to speak of, is a reclusive spot that pretty much every major food magazine has managed to find. It's been lavished with praise, and garnered umpteen awards, and appeared on Top Chef Masters. There’s a finery to the food here that hews close to that of classic French treatments, but steps forward by virtue of modernity and perfect ingredients. A dewy foie-gras torchon adds a reduction of stone fruit and huckleberries, with bits of macadamia for crunch. A bright starter marries jicama and watercress with roast pineapple. Moist, seared yellowfin snapper is uncluttered by a snappy salsa verde and richly roasted fennel. The grownup wine list matches the low-ceilinged room, with its trompe l’oeil linen walls and warm lighting. Service is flawless. Reserve in advance.