advertisement

Tucked away in a residential Uptown neighborhood, with no signage to speak of, is a reclusive spot that pretty much every major food magazine has managed to find. Chef Sue Zemanick has been lavished with their praise, garnered umpteen awards, and by the time you read this may be a Top Chef Masters winner. There’s a finery to the food here that hews close to that at classic French treatments, but steps forward by virtue of modernity and perfect ingredients. A dewy foie-gras torchon adds a reduction of stone fruit and huckleberries, with bits of macadamia for crunch. A bright starter marries jicama and watercress with roast pineapple. Moist, seared yellowfin snapper is uncluttered by a snappy salsa verde and richly roasted fennel. The grownup wine list matches the low-ceilinged room, with its trompe l’oeil linen walls and warm lighting. Reserve in advance.