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This modern seafood shrine is one of the city’s best restaurants, period. It is polished from the top down, in service and seafood sourcing: with a shipment of fresh fish arriving straight from the Gulf and beyond at 4 pm daily. Stylish preparations include the signature “scalibut” (thin-sliced scallop “scales” atop grilled halibut) on lobster risotto, worthy of its fame. A diverting starter of watermelon and pork belly, or the lobster dumplings with a light brush of fennel, are both to be savored. The wine list is thoughtfully complementary, with a good range of mid-priced bottles and an extensive array of finer pours by the glass. Order the pretzel-crusted salty-malty ice cream pie, even if you only have room for a bite. The large, tiered dining room is handsome and high-ceilinged yet conversation-conducive. We particularly love those high-backed gangsta booths along the back wall.