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This modern seafood shrine is one of the city’s best restaurants, period. It is polished from the top down, with the owner prowling the floor like a tiger mama assuring that no imperfection makes it to the table, or even enters into diners’ consciousness. It’s clear that GW Fins takes the same care in sourcing its fish, which comes from the Gulf and far beyond, and is just bratty fresh. Preparations are stylish enough but don’t dare upstage the star—like the perfectly seared yellowfin tuna or the signature “scalibut” (thin-sliced scallop “scales” atop grilled halibut) on lobster risotto, worthy of its fame. A diverting starter of watermelon and pork belly is also to be savored, as are the lobster dumplings with a light brush of fennel. The wine list thoughtfully complements the cuisine, with a good range of mid-priced bottles and a much-appreciated, extensive array of finer pours by the glass. Order the pretzel-crusted salty-malty ice cream pie, even if you only have room for a bite. The large, tiered dining room is handsome and high-ceilinged, but also manages to be conversation-conducive. We love those high-backed gangsta booths along the back wall. Check the website for excellent seasonal multicourse deals. Make dinner reservations in advance.