The restaurant seats 4 people—but the napkins are linen. The neighborhood looks sketch—but the neighbors are friendly. It makes no matter—the food is worth the trip for those interested in “The Real New Orleans” (you’re well out of the tourist zones, into an area where the city’s 24% poverty rate is evident). You’ll also see some beautiful old homes, a sparkling new community center, and plates presented with the pride of ownership that Jeff Heard imbues in all his soulful, home-cooked dishes. His “Superdome,” a dome of mashed potatoes atop a crispy catfish filet, topped with wafer-thin onion rings and surrounded by crab and crawfish creamed corn, is pretty much all you need to eat this week—and so worth it. But get the stuffed bell pepper if it’s available.