Craft-cocktail guru Chris McMillan came out of retirement to open Kingfish. The ample bar space, surrounded by the elongated, brick and tin-paneled dining room, has the edge over the kitchen: the drinks are stellar, it’s open to the street, and it’s a good hang while taking in the easygoing Southern fare, hearty stuff with smarts. We like the boudin tamale and the BBQ shrimp with waffles. Although the signature “King” pompano, seared and served on a salt brick, didn’t live up to expectations, we do like the creative impulses behind it. Kingfish succeeds with seasonal salads and little surprises: fresh plums in one, couscous with Creole tomatoes in another. Next door, its casual little bro The Counter has simple but quality grab-and-go salads and sandwiches (and a convenient make-your-own Bloody Mary bar). It’s good for a quickie.