Some of the best cheap eats do in fact operate out of a neon-lit window at the back of a dicey, punk-meets-metal nightclub whose Wi-Fi password is “Satan.” Once we got past the bouncer (just explain you’re there for the food), we fell hard for this place, starting with the pucker-inducing pickled veggies and a simple $2.50 side of crisp, grilled asparagus. The heartier mushroom-and-spinach blini were a bit greasy, but we made return visits for the locally made kielbasa po’ boy with spicy cabbage and searingly hot mustard, and the beet-and-lentil burger topped with goat cheese. You’ll probably want to take your order to go unless you don’t mind the smoke or the music; in that case, pay the cover and order something from the decent beer list. This “Slavic soul food” isn't like anything from the old country; it's just satisfying, adventurous, affordable bar eats like you probably haven’t seen before.