La Boca

One might not think of New Orleans as a steak town, but it’s yet another tradition that runs deep here (one friend calls it the Big Meaty—it’s the city that gave us Ruth’s Chris, after all). You choose your cut and your knife at this Argentinean steakhouse, and you should get the transcendent 3-day fries regardless of what else you order. But for the best-flavored beefiness we suggest the entraña fina skirt steak (which can also be had skin-on, interesting but unnecessary) or the centro de entraña hanger steak. Temperatures are proper; the trio of chimichurri sauces add zip. Servers know their meats and are helpful about the (accordingly Argentinian) wines, but aren’t particularly sociable. We miss the secretive, cavern-like ambience of their original location, but the commodious, loft-like new room does make it easier to get a table.