When rumors first arose that Jeff “Beachbum” Berry was moving to New Orleans and opening up a bar/restaurant, the buzz in the tiki community (yes, there is one) was deafening. After all, Berry literally wrote the book on tiki. That the cocktails deliver was never in doubt, but Lat 29 succeeds because it’s all the tiki you could hope for and less: There’s bamboo, wood, and thatch decor, but it’s understated; the fun, made-for-sharing rum-bombs in bowls and giant clamshells are nuanced and ingredient-driven. The ratcheted-up Polynesian fare is less cloy, more Cantonese-meets-Creole-meets-craft than the midcentury version. But do expect elaborate garni, cute umbrellas, and kitschy custom stir sticks. And don’t skip the riblets or the light veggie poke with the oddly excellent pistachio froth.