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When friends fly in for a visit, we stop here on the way home to get them in the gumbo groove. Liuzza's by the Track has one of the best in town. The BBQ-shrimp po’ boy is their signature, overstuffed with peppery, butter-soaked shrimp, but we’re partial to the garlic oyster sammie. When we’re feeling feisty we switch to the drippy garlic-stuffed roast beef, with a pinch of horseradish in the mayo (we’ll often get the cup of gumbo and half po’ boy deal, which excludes BBQ shrimp). Specials can be pretty special, so check the board. The veggie-deprived should opt for the Portobello salad, and everyone here should strike up a conversation with whoever’s nearby. It’s that sort of place. Avoid prime weekday lunch hours if you can.