Is it gumbo or is it heroin? Well, heroin doesn’t start with a deep, rich roux, so it must be Liuzza’s gumbo that we’re addicted to. When we fly in from out of town, we stop here on the way home just for a gumbo fix. The BBQ-shrimp po’ boy is their signature, overstuffed with peppery, butter-soaked shrimp, but we’re partial to the garlic oyster sammie. When we’re feeling feisty we switch to the drippy garlic-stuffed roast beef, with its pinch of horseradish in the mayo (we’ll often get the cup of gumbo and half po’ boy deal; choose any except for that BBQ shrimp). Specials can be pretty special, so check the board. The veggie-deprived should opt for the Portobello salad, and everyone here should strike up a conversation with whoever’s nearby. It’s that sort of place. Avoid prime weekday lunch hours if you can.