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We thought this decidedly French locals’ favorite was a perfect pearl before it changed hands in 2014. But the new chef-owners topped that high bar. Meauxbar is no flash—and no flaws. That doesn’t mean it’s boring. It’s just that everything is done right. Service in the crisp espresso and white room is smart but unhurried, friendly but unforced. The spot-on wine selection includes several half-bottles or carafes. Small and large plates feature French-based standards with an accent on now. High-grade local ingredients shine through the exacting flavor profiles, as in the meaty, just-caught speckled trout heaped with toasted almonds; the delicate moules tickled with fennel and topped with model-thin frites; the bone-deep richness of the braised beef and onions on feloniously large, gruyère-topped brioche slices. For a fine finis, just say oui to the creamy dreamy chocolate and salted caramel dacquoise.