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The original French Quarter Morning Call was a Café du Monde rival back in the 1870s. This outlet, in the midst of glorious, oak-filled City Park, harkens back to that old style and is a very welcome addition to Mid-City. You’re here for café au lait and beignets, 3 for $2, which usually come fresh from the fryer. You self-sprinkle powdered sugar atop them to your liking (which may mean removing the lids of the shaker bottles). Look also for a few Creole standbys, jambalaya and red beans and such, which are awfully handy at 4am or if you’re famished from a longer-than-expected museum visit.