Mother’s

Legendary Mother’s gets the “touristy” rap, but hey, Paris is touristy. And if it’s good enough for Beyoncé and Jay-Z (who selfied from here), it’s…actually that has no bearing on anything. Its worth is in proportion to line length: If there are more than four parties ahead of you, go elsewhere. If you can waltz right in, the combo platter makes a decent introduction to Creole cuisine. Best bet is any poor boy with Mother’s signature baked ham, like the top-selling Ferdi (ham, roast beef debris), or with turkey and cheese, our preference (or with biscuits at breakfast). Guffaw at the bread pudding’s retro inclusion of canned fruit cocktail, but it’s freakishly good. Follow the line rules lest you get some hostess lip: 1) no table-saving; 2) get steam-table items; 3) order and receive drinks; 4) pay; 5) then and only then find a table—don’t send a scout to save one; 6) a server delivers the rest of the food.