Ralph’s on the Park

Huge picture windows look out on Spanish moss–draped oaks in City Park. Music from Joe Krown’s stylish stride piano seeps from the lounge and across the cream-upholstered dining room. You’re sipping a French 75, eagerly anticipating the turtle soup and brown-butter sweetbread starters you’ve just ordered, gazing out upon the setting sun, the glistening rain, or into your sweetheart’s baby blues. Whatevs—it’s dreamy here. The fare, in a big step up from its straightforward Creole of a few years ago, now takes a fresh global approach (still with a pinch of Creole). Happy to see an appetizer of ya ka mein on the menu, a polished version of the local ramen-like hangover cure. Roast cobia comes topped with a light hollandaise, barely redolent of the crawfish fat used deep in the recipe. Shrimp and grits is done with curry and yogurt in an Indian twist. Desserts are playful and crowd-pleasing (just say chocolate crème brûlée). The whole experience epitomizes Southern elegance—a vacation within a vacation, and it’s easily reachable by cab or the City Park streetcar. Check the website for terrific multi-course specials, and allow time to hear Mr. Krown at happy hour or brunch. Reserve well in advance, especially for brunch.