Ralph’s on the Park
Huge picture windows look out on Spanish moss–draped oaks in City Park. Joe Krown’s stylish stride piano seeps from the lounge and across the cream-upholstered dining room. You’re sipping a French 75, eagerly anticipating the turtle soup and brown-butter sweetbread starters, gazing upon the setting sun, glistening rain, or your sweetheart’s baby blues. Whatevs—it’s dreamy here. The fare takes a fresh global approach with a pinch of Creole. A polished version of ya-ka-mein, the local ramen-like hangover cure, is soothing surprise. Roast cobia comes topped with a light hollandaise, faintly redolent of the crawfish fat used deep in the recipe. Shrimp and grits gets a curry and yogurt twist. Desserts are crowd-pleasing: Just say chocolate crème brûlée. The whole experience epitomizes Southern elegance—a vacation within a vacation. It’s easily reachable by cab or the City Park streetcar, and there are usually multi-course specials. Allow time to hear Mr. Krown at happy hour or brunch.
Huge picture windows look out on Spanish moss–draped oaks in City Park. Joe Krown’s stylish stride piano seeps from the lounge and across the cream-upholstered dining room. You’re sipping a French 75, eagerly anticipating the turtle soup and brown-butter sweetbread starters, gazing upon the setting sun, glistening rain, or your sweetheart’s baby blues. Whatevs—it’s dreamy here. The fare takes a fresh global approach with a pinch of Creole. A polished version of ya-ka-mein, the local ramen-like hangover cure, is soothing surprise. Roast cobia comes topped with a light hollandaise, faintly redolent of the crawfish fat used deep in the recipe. Shrimp and grits gets a curry and yogurt twist. Desserts are crowd-pleasing: Just say chocolate crème brûlée. The whole experience epitomizes Southern elegance—a vacation within a vacation. It’s easily reachable by cab or the City Park streetcar, and there are usually multi-course specials. Allow time to hear Mr. Krown at happy hour or brunch.
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