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This extravagant spot, helmed by food-world icons (John Folse and Rick Tramonto) keys the cuisine to New Orleans’ globe-hopping cultural influences. Go big at this big-idea, big-ticket spot in a fanciful but refined setting, with unpretentious service and beautiful plating. It’s Event Dining, so save up your paycheck and make it truly memorable. Tour the rooms (better yet, book one, like the stunning Storyville Parlor, or come for the festive jazz brunch). Indulge in something marvelous from the wine list, so enormous that only an iPad can contain it, and augment your order with sides, sauces, and toppings. Lead with the rich “Death by Gumbo” and gently crisped crab beignets, each with a different rémoulade dollop. A terrine of lustrous duck-liver mousse and rugged country pâté terrines are the best bang. Shrimp and grits get a chili-and-ginger Asian kick; the voluminous veal chop bursts with flavor. A jewelry box of tiny cookies is a darling lagniappe, but get “beignets with coffee” anyway. Service can be a bit casual for a restaurant of this caliber and cost, but we’ll take that over snooty.