Soon after Alon Shaya left the eponymous, mega-award-winning restaurant he helped originate (we’ll spare you the breakup details), Chef Shaya roared back by opening Saba, just blocks away. The menu and amped-up Israeli recipes resemble those at Shaya: The fresh, modern Middle Eastern flavorings are intact, with a bit more localism woven through. That’s evident in the blue crab topping the velvety hummus, and the rich duck broth in the matzo ball soup. The Middle Eastern herbs and spices are as subtle as the textures are supple, and the menu encourages a table full of shared plates—tiny, small, medium, and major. Start with some pretty plates of salatim, like the ikra (lox shmear on steroids) or lutenitsa, oven-fired peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant pureed and seasoned to pure perfection. At three for $15, order as many plates as your table can fit. That way they’ll keep bringing the glorious, steam-puffed pita bread, piping-hot-fresh from the wood oven. The whole harissa-roasted chicken is moist and perfect, and the astute wine list is wisely stocked with a contingent of beautifully complementary rosés. Close with the divine labneh cheesecake, grit notwithstanding, and the carob-fudge cake with black sesame gelato, carob notwithstanding.