Rustic doesn’t mean unpolished at tradition-flipping Sac-a-lait, named for the official state freshwater fish of Louisiana. The hunting/fishing camp-driven fare includes thin filets of venison backstrap fried to a high crunch and painted with a creamy peppery sauce; house specialty Lost Fish (ours a speckled trout) is “perdu” style: dredged through an egg and cream froth, pan-fried to create a crisp crust, and served on a bed of creamy crawfish étouffée in a double-win. If your party is game, a whole, 3-pound richly roasted pheasant comes ready for sharing and carving (you can do it or they will). It’s a festive presentation. As long as you’re sharing, spring for a flask of barrel-aged Sazeracs. The owners hand-built much of the decor in the large converted mill, using reclaimed materials from a shuttered broom factory across the street. Expect plenty of old pine, whitewashed brick, subtle river murals, and those clamor-causing high ceilings (and ask about the Angola gray chairs).