Tableau's pristine white space, soaring staircase and high-arched entries are impressive…But that balcony view overlooking Jackson Square is peerless. Relish an afternoon there with a well-balanced classic cocktail, slices of the addictive tart bread, and a “Grand Royal” quartet of seafood starters—including sublime bacon-wrapped, rosemary-skewered oysters. In cooler climes, opt for a hearty red and the heartier, hopped-up onion soup. The airy main dining room looks onto the gleaming open kitchen and brick courtyard. Things we like there: servings in full or demi portions, aiding those who want less or more. Chicken Tableau’s juicy dark and white portions in a rich béarnaise sauce; time-honored poached-egg dishes on the dinner menu (and at the rollicking brass-band brunch); the logo-branded crème brûlée, served in a shallow, wide bowl (as at other Brennan’s restaurants), to maximize the crispy-crust-to-silken-custard ratio. Service could use a little smoothing out, but the overall experience is classic New Orleans, turned up enough to honor gastronomy in 1880 as well as today.