Tableau

The pristine white space betrays the fact that Tableau, with its soaring staircase and impressive, high-arched entries, is brand new. But that balcony view overlooking Jackson Square is ageless—and peerless. We relish an afternoon in this scenic spot with a well-balanced classic cocktail, slices of the addictive tart bread, and a “Grand Royal” quartet of seafood starters—including sublime bacon-wrapped, rosemary-skewered oysters. In cooler climes, opt for a hearty red and the heartier, hopped-up onion soup. The airy main dining room looks onto the gleaming open kitchen and brick courtyard; the genteel upstairs room features gold-flocked, vaulted ceilings. Like the cuisine, the overall Tableau experience is classic New Orleans, turned up—not to racing speed, but enough to honor gastronomy in 1880 as well as 2015. Things we like: servings in full or demi portions, aiding those who want less and those who want more. Chicken Tableau’s juicy dark and white portions in a rich Béarnaise sauce. Time-honored poached-egg dishes on the dinner menu. Rare tournedos of steak, with a buttery red-wine reduction and a seared foie-gras souvenir. The logo-branded crème brûlée, served in a shallow, wide bowl (as at other Brennan’s restaurants), masterfully maximizes the crispy-crust-to-silken-custard ratio. Service can use a little smoothing out, but overall Tableau is a well-tuned baby grand.