When you think of barbecue, you might think Memphis, St. Louis, Texas . . . now think Bywater (unless you’re Uptown, then think McClure’s; 4800 Magazine St.;; tel. 504/301-2367; and at NOLA Brewing). When that smoked-meat hankering hits, The Joint stands up to the best of them. Its newish location in an old corner store is less joint-like and more modern roadhouse, with picnic tables inside and out. The luscious baby-backs and smoldering, lean brisket are sublime; for something truly local, try the Cajun sausage, made around these parts. Sides are fine, but save room for the peanut butter pie.