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When you think of barbecue, you conjure up Memphis, St. Louis, Texas, the Carolinas . . . now think Bywater (unless you’re in Mid-City, then think Blue Oak, 99 Carrollton Ave.; www.blueoak.com; tel. 504/822-2583). When that smoked-meat hankering hits, the Joint stands up to the best of them. Its location in an old corner store is less joint-like and more modern roadhouse, with picnic tables inside and out. The luscious baby-backs and lean, smoldering brisket are sublime; for something truly local, try the Cajun sausage. Sides are fine, but save room for the peanut butter pie.