This stylish arrival sports more marble per square foot than a quarry, but the food, which stops just short of fussy, is not hard to like. The duck-fat hush puppies are addictive; other starters are a bit dear but the luscious ricotta gnudi with wine-soaked mushrooms are worth it. A simple, sliced Wagyu strip steak stands out, as does the beautifully textured pork shank, first cooked sous vide, then seared, dotted with green lentils and served over melted apples. The slender space and sleek gray booths don’t quash the liveliness thanks to sociable service and a genial cocktail scene (including well-crafted low-alcohol options). In fact, a seat at either bar—oysters and cocktails in front, open kitchen in back—adds to the experience. So does the Fat Elvis peanut butter/banana/bacon sundae—but it’s over the top, even for us. We loved the tender rhubarb cheesecake.