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These past few years, eyebrows were raised by chef turnover here, but it was for naught: Genial owner/host JoAnn Clevenger has maintained the hospitable vibe that has been a touchstone at this charming residential spot for a quarter century, and the new chef has kept signature items unmolested while adding a few tricks of his own. We love that they do a “Taste of New Orleans” dinner: seven traditional local specialties in small plates ($45), crafted here with far more care than most other “samplers” around town. Standout appetizers include fried green tomatoes with shrimp rémoulade sauce (an oft-copied dish that was invented here) and a gumbo as rich as Bill Gates (and many shades darker). For entrees, the moist roast duck with a spry ginger-peach sauce is crispy perfection on a plate (though the plating could be sharpened); a mellow, sautéed drum comes with a shock of spicy shrimp. If you’re in town in the summer, the all-garlic menu is great fun. Don’t leave without succumbing to the warm honey-pecan bread pudding, touring the art-filled restaurant, and thanking JoAnn (though she’ll probably get to you first to do the same). Take the streetcar—it’s an easy walk and the combo makes for a stellar evening. Reserve in advance during peak periods.