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In 2004, this was a humble chicken shack in a not great neighborhood, known to locals, the budding foodie community, and a few enterprising tourists. In 2005, octogenarian Willie Mae and her secret-recipe fried chicken were designated “American classics” by the James Beard Foundation, and the world came knocking. Weeks later, her home and restaurant were 8 feet under water. The remarkable, volunteer-driven recovery began quickly, with hands-on support from local restaurateurs—a testament to New Orleans’s supportive food community. Nowadays, with the matriarch’s family helming the fryers, the chicken is still beautifully spiced and crisped—on a good day. Which is much more common than a bad (dry or over-salted) day, but I’ve had them. For safety, we also order the fried pork chops, and we always get the creamy butterbeans (which don’t get near the attention the chicken does, but should). Plan for a wait—first in line, maybe for service, then for the fried-to-order bird. Or trade the character of the original Tremé location for the efficiency of the new Uptown location.