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You could easily miss this nook in the midst of the Frenchmen frenzy, but don’t. Yuki Yamaguchi’s traditional Japanese izakaya (neighborhood pub/noshery) offers an impressive array of imported sakes, beer, shochu, and Japanese bar snacks—many from family recipes. We go for octopus shumai dumplings; the carbo-reloading udon soup; crispy, lemony beef tongue; and karaage–fried chicken. It’s tiny and hip and sometimes smells of fish (there’s some sashimi, but it’s not a sushi house), which we put up with because it screens vintage Japanese films above the bar, and if we're lucky, Norbert Slama's accordion will be mourning Piaf, or some guitarist will be playing the Django waters. This earns our enduring love.