Foie gras and langoustine—the ultimate surf and turf? It is when they’re plated together at Acme, a Manhattan restaurant that’s being helmed by one of the leaders of the new Nordic cuisine movement. In recent years, chefs in Stockholm and Copenhagen have been melding traditional ingredients with contemporary cooking techniques to rave reviews. Bringing that food to NYC is chef Mads Refslund, of Copenhagen’s acclaimed Noma restaurant. And he’s doing it in a rather low-key fashion. While the food is adventurous (carrots roasted in pine needles and served under a sheet of thin lardo, for example), the decor is decidedly downscale; Refslund simply took over a long-running BBQ joint and kept it looking very much the same. The crowd, though, is different, and the models and media-types certainly spiff up the place. You will, too, when you visit.
- Pauline Frommer