Welcome to the Vegan Village, formerly known as the East Village. Over the course of the pandemic, and just before, an ethical dining operation known as Overthrow Hospitality opened up a whopping five plant-based dining rooms of different types in the neighborhood (three on East 7th street alone!). They all boast solidly tasty fare, adorable decor (big on jewel-toned velvet or velour and lots of woodsy elements), and intelligently-curated drink menus, not surprising as the team also owns four well-regarded bars, including Death & Co. But the best by far is this restaurant, thanks to the talents of chef Shenarri Freeman, whose renditions of classic Black Southern dishes are so indulgent, and so flavorful, you’ll forget you’re eating vegan. These include the finest wedge salad in all of Manhattan, a magnificent twist on lasagna (it’s deep fried!), and oddball black-eyed pea and garlic crepes with maple syrup that somehow work quite, quite well. The only downside here? Service can be a bit slapdash, meaning plates often come too quickly and pile up. A small quibble.