The spirit of the city of Naples is being channeled at this quirky little restaurant—for all the good and the bad that implies. Starting with the possible negatives, it’s a cacophonous place, made even louder by the cheerful insults the waiters sling at one another as they rush around the room. Reservations aren’t accepted, so there’s always a wait. Tables are so close together you’re going to feel as if you need elbow pads to dine safely. But all that may well recede into the background when you get your first taste of the food—so authentic, so fresh, and so darn toothsome it’s almost as if they teleported it direct from the Boot.