A dessert-only restaurant, it’s owned by a diminutive pastry chef named Chika Tillman (hence the name) who presides from behind the central counter in this glossy, all-white restaurant (it reminds me a bit of the “Milk Bar” in the movie A Clockwork Orange). All customers get a three-course tasting menu for $15. And what desserts they are! Ms. Tillman, who has baked at some of the top restaurants in the city, has a rich imagination when it comes to food, and though the pairings she makes seem weird—molten chocolate tart with red peppercorn ice-cream (studded with little bits of pepper) and red wine sauce is one—they’re right on. Better than that, actually; if desserts can be revelatory, these are. And if you’re not up for a sit down “dessert meal,” head across the street to Chika’s fab takeout place.
- Pauline Frommer