“This may be the most beautiful lettuce I’ve ever seen,” my husband remarked as our shared salad arrived. He wasn’t exaggerating: it was the green of spring, with each leaf perfectly shellacked in dressing. More than that: it tasted like what it was, which was a collage of tender greens, fava beans, peas and little nibbles of farmers cheese. The dressing didn’t mask the veggies but rather made their natural flavors pop in a way that was unusually refreshing. It’s that way with all the dishes at this accomplished new restaurant from Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, the team also behind the iconic French restaurant Buvette ★★★ and Italian eateries Via Carota ★★★ and I Sodi ★★★. I’ve written about their other eateries in the past (and still recommend them highly) but at Commerce Inn, which is inspired by the powerful simplicity of Shaker cooking and hospitality, the food and atmosphere are truly unique. The space, set on a leafy, bendy Village side street, and adorned with rough-hewn beams, and white-washed walls, is the platonic ideal of a colonial tavern. And the food—from the spoon bread to the cod cakes to the cocktails to the rhubarb crumble—is flawless. Two tips: Though it’s difficult to get reservations here, it’s usually possible to get a spot at the bar for supper. And almost all plates are large enough to share, so under-order.
New York City
Travel Guide
New York City› Restaurant
Commerce Inn
50 Commerce St. (nr Bedford St.)
Pauline Frommer
Our Rating
Neighborhood
Greenwich Village
Hours
Sun–Thurs 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm
Transportation
Subway: A, B, C, D, E, F to West 4th St.
Prices
Meals $20-$46/person
Cuisine Type
Gourmet American
Web site
Commerce Inn
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.