“This may be the most beautiful lettuce I’ve ever seen,” my husband remarked as our shared salad arrived. He wasn’t exaggerating: it was the green of spring, with each leaf perfectly shellacked in dressing. More than that: it tasted like what it was, which was a collage of tender greens, fava beans, peas and little nibbles of farmers cheese. The dressing didn’t mask the veggies but rather made their natural flavors pop in a way that was unusually refreshing. It’s that way with all the dishes at this accomplished new restaurant from Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, the team also behind the iconic French restaurant Buvette ★★★ and Italian eatery Via Carota ★★★. I’ve written about their other two eateries in past editions (and still recommend them highly) but at Commerce Inn, which is inspired by the powerful simplicity of Shaker cooking and hospitality, the food and atmosphere are, in a word, perfect. The space, set on a leafy, bendy Village side street, and adorned with rough-hewn beams, and white-washed walls, is the platonic ideal of a colonial tavern. And the food—from the spoon bread to the cod cakes to the cocktails to the rhubarb crumble—is flawless. Two tips: Though it’s difficult to get reservations here, it’s usually possible to get a spot at the bar for supper. And almost all plates are large enough to share, so under-order.