Chef-partner Ed Szymanski’s savant-like talents with fish, a protein he prepares every which way, from delicate crudos to grilled and sauced wonders. Best on the menu are the U.K. classics, like the perfect Pimm’s Cup cocktail, kedgeree (a colonial era throwback of curried rice with smoked fish), and the fish and chips, with miraculously crunchy fish, and potatoes that are boiled and then twice fried so that they’re both creamy and crisp. The sticky toffee pudding is a superbly sweet, salty, citrusy, and everything-that’s-good-in-the-world way to end the meal. But this is not a place for a romantic meal. The space is tiny, tables are jammed together, and the soundtrack is a thumping, loud mix of 80’s and 90’s disco hits, which can get annoying.

For a less frenetic Brit meal, head to Lord’s (506 LaGuardia Place, near Bleecker St.), the meat-centric off-shoot of Dame which opened in 2022. It’s as accomplished on the culinary front, but has significantly more room, making it an easier reservation to score, and a more relaxed dining experience.