The lower Lexington area, nicknamed Curry Hill for its cluster of Indian restaurants and markets, is fueled by sterno cans. But the ones used to heat the lunch buffet at this Punjabi restuarant have the distinction of warming some of the most authentic eats in town, and doing so in one of the least-kitschy, most pleasant dining rooms in the immediate area. No punches are pulled, spice-wise, and the food uses fresh vegetables and high quality meats (not always a given on Curry Hill). If you come for dinner, the kadai goat, flavored with mild fenugreek leaves, is not to be missed, especially if preceded by the chaat (lentil fritters in a zingy tamarind and yogurt sauce).