The lower Lexington area, nicknamed Curry Hill for its cluster of Indian restaurants and markets, is fueled by sterno cans. Here they’ve ditched the lunch buffet in favor of a la carte dishes, but because they have some of the most authentic eats in town, they still get a crowd. No punches are pulled, spice-wise, and the food uses fresh vegetables and high- quality meats (not always a given on Curry Hill). Among the most popular dishes are the murgh chutneywala, (exceedingly moist boneless chicken served in a joyous mango cream curry) and  kadai goat, flavored with mild fenugreek leaves, which is not to be missed, especially if preceded by the chaat (lentil fritters in a zingy tamarind and yogurt sauce).