Just as there’s no better way to understand the Lower East Side’s history than by tasting it at nearby Katz’ Delicatessen, you head to this sunny, always jammed hole-in-the-wall to understand the area’s current zeitgeist. El Rey’s menu is at once militantly healthy and absolutely delish, the better to attract the slim-young-things who crowd nearby boutiques and bars. That means extraordinarily satisfying salads (like kale with a lush dressing made from almond milk, crushed almonds, apple cider vinegar and herbs); and a deconstructed falafel sandwich, that has a hint of the real taste thanks to zatar spices, warm pita bread and raw chickpeas, but without the calories frying brings.