The next wave of food trends has come, and it has more Gallic flair than Marion Cotillard. After years in which all of the hottest new restaurants were Japanese, Chinese, or Asian Fusion, classic French cuisine is back at the fore, and nowhere better than at this canny bistro. Founded by two long-time chefs at some of the city’s best restaurants (including Balthazar, see p. ###), Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson have sagely included such old favorites as côte de boeuf and oysters with mignonette among their offerings. But there are also experiments here: a creamy egg dish with snails, only “natural” (self-fermenting) wines on the liquor menu, and duck frites rather than the usual steak frites. It’s a nice mix of options, all served in a setting that couldn’t be more Parisian with its parfait zinc bar, leather banquettes, and vintage sconce lighting. Reservations are difficult to get, so call far ahead.