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Known as the Justin Bieber of cooking, Flynn McGarrity has been professionally cheffing since before puberty. At age 11, he hosted dinner parties out of his parents' home and at 13 he helmed a pop-up restaurant in Los Angeles. In late 2017, the then 19-year-old opened this permanent venue, and most everyone who dines here comes with the same question in mind: gimmick or genius? I’d lean towards the latter, though there are a few missteps in the course of the meal. But McGarrity does a lot right, not the least of which is to recreate his early dinner party ambiance for his guests. Meals are overseen by McGarrity himself and a charming, chatty crew, none of whom are over 30, and start in the outer "parlor" where guests sip champagne and nibble canapés, like his signature take on Ritz cracker snacks, here made with foie gras and sour cherry jelly (delish). The 12-course meal in the dining room is as quirky (in décor too: It looks a bit like a gussied up ‘70s rec room with a big, spotlit kitchen in the middle)….and often thrilling. That’s particularly true if McGarrity’s beets are on the menu. Over several days he dehydrates, rehydrates, roasts, and then repeats these steps, coming up with a vegetable that tastes like the finest filet mignon. Also superb were the king crab and grapefruit salad, plus the desserts. I could have done without the pasta course, but that was a blip in this otherwise highly enjoyable new restaurant. Note: In addition to dinner service, the parlor is open for coffee and house-made pastries, a la carte, daily from 9 to 5pm.