New York’s stellar new Chinese restaurants have little in common with the take-out Chinese joints of other American cities. Many are chic as all get-out (this one features marble tables and undulating blond wood slats along the walls), with food rarely seen on this side of the Pacific.  That means the noodles here (the “Slurp”) are crafted from rice, not wheat, with a soft, pliable consistency that can most accurately be described as “angelic”. These strands of joy are then topped with all sorts of good stuff, much of it with Szechuan peppercorns that bounce around one’s tongue in the most delightful way. My suggestion: Order one noodle dish, and another that showcases the kitchen’s artistry, like the “salad” which is actually grilled and rolled eggplant with a mash of peppers and preserved duck eggs; or the whole fish topped with a spectacular Sino-version of sauerkraut.